ISLE OF HARRIS

The Isle of Harris, or South Harris, is not actually an island, being joined to Lewis by a narrow isthmus separating Loch Tarbert from West Loch Tarbert. In fact, the geography of Harris is confusing, because the northern part of it lies on the other side of the isthmus, forming part of the "Isle of Lewis". The main community on the 'Isle' is Tarbert, which has a ferry terminal offering sailings to Uig on Skye. On the southern tip of Harris is the small port of Rodel which is noted for its medieval kirk, the Church of St Clement, built by the MacLeods of Dunvegan and housing three monuments to the family, including one carved from the local black stone known as "gneiss". The other main village on the island is Leverburgh, which has a number of ferries including one to the small island of Berneray. The road which wends its way from Tarbert to Rodel was nicknamed the "golden road" because of the cost of building it. There are some spectacular beaches in South Harris, most notably Seilebost and Scarista. Film director Stanley Kubrick considered the terrain of South Harris other-worldly enough to use it as a double for the surface of Jupiter in his film "2001: A Space Odyssey", although the shots were tinted, so it may not be readily recognisable as Harris.

Map of the area.

Traigh Seilebost - geograph.org.uk - 152926. Photo by David Crocker, via Wikimedia Commons.

HUSHINISH

Hushinish, which is in the North Harris part of Lewis and Harris, is a delightful place to visit in early summer when the machair, or coastal grassy plain, is covered with flowers such as harebells, or Scottish bluebells. Delightful also for its gleaming beaches, which boast the highest percentage of shell fragments in Scotland. It is possible to walk from here via a mountain path to Cravadale on the shores of Loch Cleabhaig, a rewarding walk for the views to the uninhabited island of Scarp. The water between this coast and Scarp is notorious for its strong currents, even though it is often very shallow. Scarp was inhabited until 1970, and the difficulty of making the crossing between Hushinish and Scarp due to the treacherous waters meant that the people of Scarp were often cut off. Enter German inventor Gerhard Zucker, who in 1934 came up with a cunning plan to deliver the island's post by "rocket mail". Sadly, the inventor's attempts at delivering the mail in this way were unsuccessful, and led to the mail items being singed. Anyone who finds it hard to believe this story should head for the Museum nan Eilean in Stornoway, where examples of the damaged envelopes are on display. The episode provided inspiration for a 2004 film called The Rocket Post.

Map of the area.

Hushinish Bay - geograph.org.uk - 93841. Photo by Peter Amsden, via Wikimedia Commons.

CARLOWAY BROCH AND THE CALLANISH STONES

Anyone who loves visiting historic sites should head for the Atlantic coast of the Isle of Lewis. If you have paid a visit to the blackhouses at Arnol and wonder what it would be like to stay in one of them, there is an entire 'village' of blackhouses at Garenin (or Gearrannan) a bit further down the coast serving as holiday accommodation for a truly unique stay on the island with wonderful views out to sea. A short distance away from here is Carloway Broch, an Iron Age fortified tower which, although built 2,000 years ago, still stands proud, the dry-stone walls reaching up to 9 metres in places. Inside the walls are stairs, chambers and galleries.

One of the most haunting sights on the Isle of Lewis is the stone circle known as the Callanish Stones, the island's answer to Stonehenge, where there is a Visitor Centre. The stones, which are located on a hill above East Loch Roag, are around 6 metres high. Made from stone quarried locally, they were put up around 4,000 years ago roughly in the shape of a Celtic cross, with a cairn in the centre. Like Stonehenge, the Callanish Stones were probably erected for astronomical purposes, since they appear to be in alignment with other standing stones and circles in the area. Further down the coast still is the sandy beach of Uig where in 1831 the famous "Lewis Chessmen" were discovered. The set of 78 pieces, carved from walrus ivory and whale teeth, dates from the 12th century. Unfortunately, it is not possible to view all the pieces together, as they were split up between the British Museum in London, which has 67 of them, and the Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, which has the remaining 11.

Map of the area.

Callanish Standing Stones - Midsummer Sunset - geograph.org.uk - 367887. Photo by Alan McKenzie, via Wikimedia Commons.

ARNOL AND SHAWBOST

One half expects Ian Holm to emerge from one of the "blackhouses" at Arnol in full hobbit regalia, as they have that hobbity look about them. The blackhouses are a traditional form of dwelling with thatched roofs which the inhabitants used to share with their livestock. There was a peat fire permanently on the go in the main living area, but no chimney, so one can only imagine the aroma permeating the living space. Contrary to their name, the structures are not actually black, but more grey, having thick stone walls. The Blackhouse Museum at Arnol offers visitors the chance to wander round inside one of the blackhouses, as well as one of the more recent "white houses", in which life in the 1950s is represented. The move from the blackhouses to the white ones came about largely as a result of "elf and safety" dictating that animals should be kept in a separate space. For once I agree with them.

There are further interesting traditional buildings to visit in the nearby village of Shawbost, location of the Norse Mill and Kiln. The mill once housed around 200 horizontal wheel mills, and was operational until the 1930s. The kiln was probably used to heat and dry the grain that was processed in the mill. Visitors can find out more about local life in the Old School Centre, which as well as serving as a community centre, houses a museum. One of the products Scotland is noted for is Harris tweed, which is handwoven by the islanders of the Outer Hebrides using local wool. A few years ago the industry was given a much-needed boost with the opening of a new mill at Shawbost.

Map of the area.

Black House museum, Arnol - geograph.org.uk - 221571. Photo by Catherine Morgan, via Wikimedia Commons.

THE BUTT OF LEWIS

I have been in some spectacularly windy places on the British coast - Start Point in Devon is one place that springs to mind - but the Butt of Lewis, the most northerly spot in the Western isles, must be the daddy of them all, having made the Guinness Book of Records for being the windiest place in the UK. Needless to say, the seas around here are correspondingly treacherous, hence the presence of the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, built by David and Thomas Stevenson and completed in 1862. The first thing about the lighthouse that strikes the visitor is its appearance: it is largely made up of red bricks, a contrast from the usual whitewash. The Butt of Lewis is popular with birdwatchers, being home to many seabirds.

The nearby village of Eoropaidh is the most northerly village on the island. The village is the location of the centuries-old St Moluag's Church, named after a 6th century Irish Saint. The church fell into ruin during the 19th century, but was restored in 1912. Nearby is the Port of Ness, from where the menfolk sail to the island of Sula Sgeir, 30 miles to the north, each September to harvest the "gugas", or gannets, a local delicacy which helps the inhabitants through the winter.

Map of the area.

Butt of Lewis Light House. Photo by Zenit, via Wikimedia Commons.

THE EYE PENINSULA

The Eye Peninsula, otherwise known as Point, lies about 4 miles east of Stornoway, and is separated from the rest of Lewis by a narrow isthmus called the Braigh. There is a mythical story told locally about how, back long ago when Point was a separate island, a ferocious storm caused Lewis to drift away, but the people of Point hauled it back again with the aid of a rope. The debris and sand which gathered around the rope over time was said to be the origin of the isthmus.

As soon as you enter the peninsula, you are greeted by the evocative ruins of St Columba's Church, or Eaglais Chaluim Chille in Gaelic, dating originally from the 14th century. The land around the church was used as the burial ground for the MacLeods of Lewis. It is one of several early Christian sites on the peninsula. Near St Columba's Church is a memorial to the Aignish rioters who took part in the Lewis Land Struggle in the 1800s. At the eastern extreme of the peninsula is Tiumpan Head with its lighthouse, built in 1900. It is worth taking binoculars if you decide to visit the lighthouse, as it is sometimes possible to see basking sharks or whales out at sea from here.

Map of the area.

Tiumpan Head Lighthouse - geograph.org.uk - 1246880. Photo by Stephen Branley, via Wikimedia Commons.

STORNOWAY

It takes 1 hour 45 minutes to make the journey by ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway, capital of the Isle of Lewis and the largest town in the Western Isles. The name of the town comes from the Viking for "Steering Bay". Much of the town's architecture harks back to more prosperous times, when the harbour housed a significant herring fleet: most notably the Town Hall, which is is a grand Edwardian affair, while Lews Castle on the bank of a river feeding into the harbour mouth is in the mock-Tudor style, although it was built in the 1840s by a business magnate. Many improvements were made to the castle by another magnate, Lord Leverhulme, of Unilever, who bought the Isle of Lewis in 1918 for £143,000. The Museum Nan Eilean puts on exhibitions about the history of the Western Isles. More active pursuits on offer include golfing, go-karting and paintball, while in summer there are boat trips which leave from behind the Lifeboat Station.

One thing visitors to the Isle of Lewis may find hard to get used to is the fact that almost everything closes on a Sunday. However, many people would probably find this aspect of life on Lewis a refreshing change from the 7-days-a-week open-all-hours mentality on the mainland. Things liven up considerably each year in July, with the Sail Stornoway Maritime Festival, which offers sailing events open to all. This year's festival has just ended, as has the Hebridean Celtic Festival, which took place at Lews Castle.  Other attractions in the town include the Lewis Loom Centre for fans of Harris Tweed.

Map of the area.

Stornoway Harbour. Photo by Wmck, via Wikimedia Commons.