IRVINE

A recent newspaper report has suggested that Irvine is one of Scotland's cheapest coastal towns to live in, with average house prices running at less than £100,000, less than a third of the average price in Scotland's priciest coastal town, North Berwick on the east coast.  So what does the town offer would-be residents?  The main attraction nowadays is the regenerated harbourside, which boasts the Scottish Maritime Museum as well as an attractive mix of old and new cottages and houses, leisure craft in the harbour and several harbourside pubs, plus two golf courses, all of which makes for a good enough reason to visit the town, or even take advantage of the house prices and move there.  On the northern edge of town is Eglinton Country Park, which includes the remains of Eglinton Castle, built in the late 18th century.  There are a number of grandiose buildings in the town, such as the Irvine Town House, which point to more prosperous times in the past.  Coal mining and coal exports were a particular mainstay of the local economy until the coal industry was brought to its knees.  Partly because of this, Irvine was designated a New Town and acquired a Development Corporation in 1966.  However, this did not prevent the town reaching a low point in the 1980s, when unemployment was running at 22% as a result of industrial decline.  However, the harbourside regeneration plus the arrival of new sources of employment have gone some way to reverse this trend.

Irvine's origins date back to the 12th century, when the settlement was given burgh status by Hugh de Morville, Great Constable of Scotland, and was Scotland's Military Capital.  Irvine subsequently acquired a reputation as a centre of learning and as such was praised by James Boswell and Daniel Defoe.  Edgar Allan Poe went to school in Irvine's kirkgate.  As well as such cerebral pursuits, the town can be credited with a number of inventions, such as the Pneumatic Tyre.  Two of the town's streets, Burns Street and Burns Crescent, are a reminder that Robert Burns once worked in a flax mill there.  The mill was located on the Glasgow Vennel, a conservation area.    

Map of the area.  

Irvineharbourbuildings. Photo by Rosser1954, via Wikimedia Commons

ARDROSSAN AND SALTCOATS

In 1921 an American engineer called Paul F. Godley accompanied a member of the Marconi company to a site in Ardrossan on the North Ayrshire coast.  Once there the pair set up a receiver station which was to pave the way for the first transatlantic short wave radio transmission from the USA, from Greenwich, Connecticut.  The receiver, a Beverage class, was the first of its kind to be used in the United Kingdom, and the experiment was a complete success.  There is a plaque commemorating the event on the front wall of the Abbotsford Nursing Home, which stands near the chosen site.

Ardrossan is a historic port which grew in importance thanks to its shipbuilding activities during the 18th and 19th centuries, as well as the export of coal and pig iron to Europe and America.  Today's maritime activity is focused on the Clyde Marina, while there is a ferry service linking Ardrossan to Brodick on the Isle of Arran and a new ferry service which started just a few days ago between Ardrossan and Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula.   Cannon Hill, or Castle Hill, is an elevated recreation area and is also the site of Ardrossan Castle, dating as far back as the 12th century.  The neighbouring community of Saltcoats, a former fishing village that was made a burgh in 1528, merges almost seamlessly with Ardrossan.  The name derives from the fact that salt used to be harvested from the sea here.  Shipbuilding also formed part of the local economy.  Recreational activities include golf courtesy of the Auchenharvie Golf Course.

Map of the area. 

Ardrossan North Beach. Photo by Roger Griffith, via Wikimedia Commons

WEST KILBRIDE

Two years ago the Sun newspaper carried a story about UFO sightings over West Kilbride, claiming that there had been more sightings there than any other place in Britain, earning it the distinction of being the UK's UFO hotspot.  One local resident had seen so many strange objects in the sky that she was convinced that there was some sort of "alien motorway" above the town. Sightings have included a "huge pink and blue triangle", "airborne jellyfish" and yellow spheres flying in groups of up to 25 - although it could be argued that the latter were Chinese lanterns. 

Back to more earthly matters, the name West Kilbride derives from St Brigid of Kildare, a Celtic saint.  However, there is evidence of much earlier settlement in the area in the form of a Neolithic cup and ring marked stone on nearby Blackshaw Hill.  Later on, in Medieval times a simple rectangular castle was erected on Law Hill called Law Castle.  The castle is available for weddings.  Crosbie Castle, or Crosbie Towers on the north west side of the village was rebuilt from a 17th century tower.  The original tower was the home of William Wallace's uncle.  There is a small museum in the Village Hall displaying objects from the village's past.  Fans of arts and crafts may be interested to know that West Kilbride is gaining a reputation as a crafts centre, according it the title Craft Town Scotland.  Meanwhile, walkers will enjoy the woodland walk along Kirktonhall Glen from West Kilbride to Seamill - Kirktonhall itself is a 17th century townhouse.  Like most golf clubs in this part of Scotland, the West Kilbride Golf Club offers wonderful views across the Firth of Clyde.

Map of the area. 

Kirktonhall House. Photo by Dreamer84, via Wikimedia Commons

FAIRLIE

Every town and village along this stretch of coast seems to have at least one claim to fame.  In the case of Fairlie, it is the fact that it was Scotland's first Fair Trade village.  In order to qualify for this status a town or village needs to fulfil certain criteria regarding the availability of Fair Trade products in shops, or through the fare on offer in cafes and so on.  The community's Fair Trade status is announced at the entrance to the village on a sign which was unveiled by a mango farmer from Burkina Faso.  During World War II, Fairlie lent its name to a type of mortar, which was developed at an anti-submarine research establishment set up there.  The Royal Navy ASDIC anti-submarine research establishment moved to Fairlie in 1940, taking over the yard of yacht-builder William Fife, and while there developed the Fairlie mortar.  The five mortar tubes installed on the destroyer  HMS Whitehall were given a rather saucy nickname: the "Five Wide Virgins".  The mortar was not very successful, however, and evolved into the much more successful Squid.  Nowadays, Fairlie is a quiet village on the Firth of Clyde with lovely views across to Arran and Great Cumbrae.  Leisure facilities in the village include a Yacht Club dating from the 1960s.

Map of the area. 

Fairlie on a misty sunny morning (3565637979). Photo by SeaDave, via Wikimedia Commons

GREAT CUMBRAE

Great Cumbrae is an island which is accessible by ferry from Largs.  The island offers a variety of outdoor activities and a range of wildlife including eagles, polecats, seals, basking sharks and dolphins.  The island's main settlement is Millport, a resort set on a lovely bay.  The town's main claim to fame is that it is home to Britain's smallest cathedral, known as the Cathedral of the Isles, designed by the Gothic Revival architect William Butterfield and completed in 1851.  The miniature theme continues in Stuart Street with a building called The Wedge, which at a mere 47 inches wide has the narrowest street frontage in Britain.  The Garrison House in Millport houses the Museum of the Cumbraes, with fascinating displays of the history of the island through the ages, from coffins found on the island dating back 4,000 years, to smuggling tales from the 18th century and descriptions of life on the island during World War II.  The building itself has a smuggling connection, in that it once housed the crew of an anti-smuggling Revenue sailing ship, the Royal George.  The Robertson Museum and Aquarium showcases the island's marine life and local habitats.  About half a mile south of Great Cumbrae is its little brother, Little Cumbrae or the Wee Cumbrae as it is known locally, which itself has a little brother called Castle Island on which a ruined 16th century castle stands.  Little Cumbrae has two lighthouses, the older of which was the second lighthouse to be built in Scotland, dating from 1757.  The "new" lighthouse was built in 1793 by Thomas Smith and Robert Stevenson.

Live streaming webcam view of Millport Bay, courtesy of Mapes of Millport.

Map of the island 

Millportbay. Photo by Johh McLeish, via Wikimedia Commons

LARGS

Largs is a popular holiday resort with a history stretching back to the Vikings.  In fact Largs can lay claim to being the scene of the last Viking invasion to take place in Britain.  The Battle of Largs in 1263 paved the way for the Treaty of Perth three years later, by which Norway ceded its claims to the Western Isles.  The resort makes the most of its Viking past in the form of a festival which takes place in late summer each year.  "Villages" are set up on the seafront populated by re-enactment groups who demonstrate to visitors the Viking way of life.  The climax of the festivities is the burning of a longship and the re-enactment of the 1263 battle.  Those who can't make it to the festival but want to find out about the Viking way of life should head to Vikingar, which incorporates a Viking museum as well as swimming and other facilities.

Aside from Viking shenanigans, Largs has the usual trappings of a seaside resort.  The Barrfields Pavilion, opened in 1930, has recently been revamped into a theatre.  Nardini's Ice Cream Parlour dominates the promenade and is a Largs institution.  Just to the south of the town is Largs Sailing Club.   Skelmorlie Aisle, in the care of Historic Scotland, is the remains of Largs Old Kirk, which is notable for the an elaborately carved stone tomb and a painted ceiling.  Just to the south of Largs is Kelburn Castle, a keep with 17th century additions in the style of a French chateau.  The castle is now looked after by Historic Scotland and incorporates a country centre and estate.  Boat trips are available in the summer months courtesy of the paddle steamer Waverley.  Also, the island of Great Cumbrae is reachable by ferry from Largs.  Largs is the birthplace of the actor John Sessions.

For events in Largs, see here. 

Live streaming webcam view from Largs Yacht Haven.

Map of the area.

Largs Churches - geograph.org.uk - 605899. Photo by Eddie Dowds, via Wikimedia Commons

CORRIE AND SANNOX

The villages of Corrie and Sannox lie in the shadow of the highest peak on Arran, Goatfell, and there is a path starting near Corrie which ascends the mountain. Corrie got its name from the Gaelic "coire" meaning ravine. There are actually two corries: Corrie itself, which is strung out along the shoreline and the picturesque High Corrie, which enjoys magnificent views of mountain and sea. There are caves above Corrie harbour which are remnants of former limestone quarries, and were later used for boat building and repair. Visitors should beware of entering them, however, as they have been declared unsafe. Sannox has Viking origins, and was originally named Sandvik, or Sandy Bay, by them. There used to be a pier and light railway here when there was a Barytes mine nearby, but they were demolished after the mine's vein ran out. There was also a village in North Glen Sannox which became deserted in the 1800s when all the inhabitants emigrated to Canada. Some of the emigrants built a church in their new home very similar to the one in Sannox, which had only been in use for a few years before the emigration. There is a nine-hole golf course in Sannox, while walkers can set out from Sannox on a walk around Glen Sannox - details on the walkhighlands website.

Map of the area.

Corrie Harbour, Arran. Photo by wfmillar, via Wikimedia Commons

BRODICK

It is always fascinating to read archive newspaper reports, particularly those written during the war.  The August 15 1945 edition of the Glasgow Herald is full of reports of celebrations following the announcement of the surrender of Japan which marked the end of the Second World War in the Pacific, and therefore the end of the war overall (the war had ended in Europe in May).  In Brodick there was an impromptu church service at one o'clock in the morning attended by flocks of people who came "from along the foreshore, lit by the windows of boarding-houses and the V-flashing searchlights of warhips in the bay".  The report goes on to describe how the minister who took the service was woken by the hooting of the ships' sirens.  After the service church bells were rung, bonfires lit and flares ignited on the sand.

Brodick, which is dominated by Arran's highest peak, Goatfell, is the main tourist centre on Arran, largely due to the fact that it is served by the ferry service from Ardrossan on the opposite side of the Firth Of Clyde.  The town's attractions include a Heritage Museum which tells the island's history and an 18-hole golf course.  However, the biggest draw is Brodick Castle and its extensive grounds, located on the north side of Brodick Bay.  The present-day stately home dates from the 19th century, although the site was originally defended by the Vikings, and a castle was built here in the 13th century for the Stewarts of Menteith.  The castle has had many severe knocks over the years, whether on the part of the English, including the forces of Henry VIII and of Oliver Cromwell, or during the frequent clan skirmishes that took place here.   The interior of the castle is open to visitors, with many sumptuously furnished rooms on view, as well as the more mundane areas such as the kitchen and scullery, and there is also a dungeon.  The gardens are charming to walk around, while the surrounding country park offers a range of waymarked trails.  Probably the most unusual feature of the grounds is the Bavarian Summer House, which looks like something out of a children's fairy tale, with the exterior imitating tree roots and the interior covered with pine cones.

For events in Brodick and Arran, follow thjs link. 

Map of the area.  

Brodick Bay with Goatfell in background. Photo by Nick MacNeill, via Wikimedia Commons

LAMLASH

Lamlash is the biggest settlement on Arran and its main administrative centre.  It lies on Lamlash Bay, which benefits from the protection of Holy Isle, which straddles the outer reaches of the bay.  Holy Isle, where St Molias once lived in a cave, is home to a Buddhist retreat and can be reached via a 10-minute ferry ride from Lamlash.  The shelter afforded by the island was taken advantage of by King Hakon IV of Norway when he sheltered his fleet here in the 13th century, although he was given a pasting at the Battle Of Largs in 1263.  More recently, the Navy took advantage of the sheltered bay during both world wars.  The naval officers, who included future kings Edward VIII and George VI, availed themselves of the delights of the Lamlash Golf Club while in town.  There is a memorial to the Clearances in Lamlash, recalling the time that the exodus from the island due to the Clearances reached its peak.  In April 1829 a ship left Lamlash laden with 86 islanders and their possessions bound for Canada.  They settled in Megantic County, to be joined by other islanders in further displacements which continued until 1840.  The memorial in Lamlash was funded by a Canadian descendant of the displaced Arran inhabitants.

Map of the area. 

Lamlash Golf Course looking towards Holy Island - geograph.org.uk - 588649. Photo by John McLuckie, via Wikimedia Commons

 

KILMORY AND KILDONAN

The southern end of Arran is rich in history, particulary in the vicinity of Kilmory and Kildonan.  Near Kilmory is the ancient Torrylin Cairn, a Neolithic chambered burial cairn. When the cairn was excavated in 1900 eight skeletons were found along with a variety of artefacts.  Back in the village foodies will want to seek out the Torylinn Creamery which produces Arran Dunlop, a former champion in the British Cheese Awards. 

Kildonan, named after the Irish monk Saint Donan, lies at the south-east tip of Arran.  The village boasts one of the few sandy beaches on Arran, and offers wonderful views across to the coast of Ayrshire, to Ailsa Craig and the island of Pladda.  Kildonan Castle, built by the MacDonalds, the Lords Of The Isles, to protect Arran's strategic position in the Firth Of Clyde, only retains its 13th century keep today.  The castle was used as a hunting lodge by the Scottish kings including Robert III.  In the 16th century the castle passed to the hands of the Earls of Arran.

Live streaming webcams from Kildonan Hall.

Map of the area. 

Scotland, Isle of Arran, Kildonan, shore with Drimla Lodge. Photo by Vincent van Zeijst, via Wikimedia Commons

 

BLACKWATERFOOT

The String Road, which I mentioned at the end of my last post, comes out at Blackwaterfoot on the west coast. Blackwaterfoot is a small village with a tiny harbour and a pebble beach on the shore of Drumadoon Bay. Just to the north of the village is Drumadoon Point, where there is an Iron Age hill fort, and beyond that is a cave known as King's Cave where, according to some theories, Robert The Bruce had his famous encounter with the spider. Also to the north of the Point is an impressive geological feature known as the Doon, a set of basalt cliffs with the characteristic columnar structure. As well as the hill fort, Drumadoon Point is the location of what is regarded as one of the best golf courses in Scotland, the 12-hole Shiskine Golf and Tennis Club. Yes that's right, I haven't made a typo, there really are only 12 holes. This unique golf course started off as a 9-hole course, then work got underway to expand it to 18 holes, but due to the ravages of the First World War 6 of the holes fell into disuse, and it remains a 12-hole course to this day.

Shiskine is also the name of a village along the String Road just inland from Blackwaterfoot, which those approaching Blackwaterfoot from this direction may want to take a look at. The village has an unusual church called St Molios, which is also known as the "Red Church" due to the striking red hue of the stone used in its construction. St Molio was an Irish monk who, in the 6th century, lived a hermit's life on Holy Island in Lamlash Bay on the east coast of Arran. The interior of the church is notable for the woodwork on its ceiling, pews and wall panels, while its windows are graced with Romanesque arches, and there is some lovely detailed stonework - quite an elaborate interior for a church which has only been in use since 1889.

Map of the area.

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Drumadoon Point - geograph.org.uk - 9039. Photo by Anne Burgess, via Wikimedia Commons

MACHRIE

I have a map of Arran with symbols depicting the main tourist sites, and one thing that stands out is the number of ancient sites which appear at regular intervals along the south-west portion of the island's coast. One of these is at Machrie Moor, which is home to six stone circles in varying degrees of collapse. Many of the stones have fallen, but some are still standing, most notably a group of three stones in reddish sandstone which comprise circle No. 2, the tallest of which is 18 feet in height. This is in marked contrast to the double circle No. 5, otherwise known as Fingal's Cauldron Seat, which is formed from low granite boulders in two concentric rings, the outer of which is more oval in shape. Fingal, or Fionn MacCuill as he is known by his Gaelic name, was a legendary giant and warrior, and according to local lore he used a stone with a hole in it in the outer circle to tether his dogs while he ate a meal in the inner ring. Some people have suggested that the double circle served as the focus of the site. The stones are reached from the main A841 road via the farm track known as Moss Farm Road - the walk from the small car park provided for visitors is just over a mile. Surprisingly for such an eminent ancient site, there is no Visitor Centre, but there are Historic Scotland information boards to help visitors interpret the site. Nearby Machrie Bay is home to a stunningly situated golf course with fabulous views across the Kilbrannan Sound to the Kintyre Peninsula. Anyone wanting to visit Machrie from the island's main town, Brodick, can reach it via the scenic String Road, built by Thomas Telford in 1817 to connect the east and west coasts.

Standing Stones, Machrie moor (8640769988). Photo by John Mason, via Wikimedia Commons.

LOCHRANZA

The ferry crossing from tiny Claonaig on the east coast of the Kintyre Peninsula to Lochranza on the Isle of Arran takes just 30 minutes, so that it is possible to visit Arran on a day trip from Kintyre, as we did a few years ago. That said, there is plenty on the island to warrant a longer stay. Arran has a different feel to it from most other Scottish islands, mainly because it is protected from the full fury of the ocean by its location, nestling in the Firth of Clyde and with the Kintyre Peninsula to the west, Rothsay and Bute to the north, and the coast of Strathclyde to the east. Arran is sometimes referred to as "Scotland in Miniature", having its own store of granite peaks, wooded glens, waterfalls, wide beaches, ancient sites and more. As its name suggests, Lochranza is situated on a loch - Loch Ranza. The shoreline is dominated by Lochranza Castle, originally built by the MacSweens in the 13th century, although the present structure dates from the 16th century. There is an abundance of wildlife in the area, most notably the red deer, which sometimes stray on to the golf course, but also the more elusive sea creatures such as seals and otters, while golden eagles have been spotted overhead. The village is home to a Field Studies Centre as well as a Visitor Centre for the Isle Of Arran Distillery.

Map of the area.

Lochranza castle from the north - geograph.org.uk - 2742603. Photo by Andy Campbell, via Wikimedia Commons.