ABERDYFI

Aberdyfi (or Aberdovey, to give it its English name) nestles at the foot of a steep flank of the mouth of the River Dovey.  The town is a popular seaside destination today, but its past has been shaped by more industrial activities.  During the 1700s copper was mined in what is now Copperhill street, and there was also lead mining.  During the 19th century the town was an important shipbuilding centre and port, with slate and oak bark the major exports.  Later in the 19th century the Aberdyfi and Waterford Steamship Copmany imported livestock from Ireland; by now there was a railway and the livestock were transported on by rail.  There is a local legend about a land submerged beneath the sea in Cardigan Bay.  The legend is also the subject of a Victorian song called The Bells of Aberdovey, arising from the notion that the sound of bells from the lost land can be heard below the water on Aberdyfi beach.

Today, the main activities in Aberdyfi revolve around the water, with sailing and watersports on offer.  There are boat trips available from the harbour, and a long sandy, dune-backed beach stretching to the north towards Tywyn.  For golfers, there is an 18-hole championship course set on the dunes.  The whole scene is accompanied by magnificent views across the estuary.

Live streaming webcam view.

Map of the area.

Aberdyfi Gwynedd B 15. Photo by Llywelyn2000, via Wikimedia Commons.

TYWYN

Heritage railway enthusiasts are really spoilt for choice in the north-west corner of Wales.  As well as the the two railways branching out from Porthmadog (see 9 May), there is the shorter, but no less delightful narrow-gauge Talyllyn Railway, which runs from Tywyn up though a beautiful valley to an area of forest and river walks called Nant Gwernol, passing the Dolgoch Falls on the way.  The railway was the first narrow-gauge railway to be licensed by Parliament to carry passengers, and is the oldest heritage railway in the UK.  The Ealing comedy The Titfield Thunderbolt was based on Talyllyn's story.  Back in Tywyn, the station houses the Narrow Gauge Railway Museum.

Tywyn is a quiet seaside town which predates the Norman invasion.  The origins of the town's Church of St Cadfan are probably also pre-Norman.  The most interesting feature of the church is St Cadfan's Stone, dating from the 8th-9th century which has an inscription in the oldest known written Welsh.  Another notable building in the town is the Magic Lantern Cinema, housed in a wonderful period building dating from 1893 and once used as the town's Assembly Room - the original sign and date can still be seen on the facade, while the present-day venue still retains its old-fashioned box office.  The cinema is one of the oldest in the UK, and as well as films it hosts a range of other arts events, all enhanced by a visit to a lovely bar for pre-show drinks.  Tywyn's golden beach, with groynes at regular intervals along its pebble-strewn sand, stretches for five miles southwards towards the mouth of the River Dovey.

Live streaming webcam view of the beach.

Map of the area.

Foreshore at Tywyn - geograph.org.uk - 214678. Photo by OLU, via Wikimedia Commons.

BARMOUTH

The stretch of coast running south from Shell Island to Barmouth is dominated by a sandy beach which is a cool seven miles long, backed by plenty of dunes for those who want to unleash their inner Lawrence of Arabia.  Towards the Barmouth end is the village of Llanaber, where the damage caused by the disastrous storms of the last winter caused the railway line from Barmouth to Harlech to be closed for several months, a closure that was rather less widely reported than that of the Dawlish line in Devon, but no less disruptive.  Thankfully, the line was recently reopened following 10 million pounds' worth of repairs.    

Barmouth from the sea.

The resort of Barmouth, which originally grew up around shipbuilding, is beautifully located on the Mawddach estuary, which explains the town's Welsh name Abermaw.  The long sandy beach and picturesque harbour offer wonderful views of the coast, estuary and mountains.  One of the most prominent landmarks is the Barmouth Bridge, a railway bridge across the estuary which was opened in 1867, and which can also be crossed by walkers and cyclists, forming part of the Wales Coast Path.  Walkers can also take the Panorama Walk, which leads one and a half miles out of town to a spectacular viewpoint with estuary and mountain views.  Another viewpoint can be reached via a walk from the town to Dinas Oleu (Fort of Light), occupying the very first piece of land to be owned by the National Trust.  Near the fort is a spot known as the Frenchman's Grave, the last resting place of Auguste Guyard, who fled from France during the Franco-Prussian War.

Dolphin sculpture by the harbour.

Back in the town itself, there is plenty for visitors to do.  As well as traditional family entertainments such as donkey rides and a funfair, there is the oldest building in Barmouth known as Ty Gwyn (the White House), which includes a small shipwreck museum dedicated to the wreck of the Bronze Bell.  The Round House (Ty Crwn) was used as a jail in the 19th century and gives a glimpse of life as a prisoner in those days.  The Dragon Theatre in a converted Victorian chapel offers a variety of cultural events.  Or just take a walk around the steep stepped streets and alleys of Old Barmouth, known as The Rock.  The Barmouth Heritage Trail guides visitors around the historic points of interest in the town.  

Across the way from Barmouth on a spit of land accessible by a ferry service is Fairbourne, home of the Fairbourne Railway, a miniature railway popular with children and adults alike.  The ferry from Barmouth Harbour is timed to coincide with the railway timetable.  Be careful on the Fairbourne side of the crossing as there are no steps, just a plank of wood connecting to a sloping coarse shingle beach which can be challenging to ascend.

Fairbourne Railway.

Webcam view from Merioneth Yacht Club.

Map of the area.

SHELL ISLAND AND LLANBEDR

One of the many pleasures to be had on the British seaside is to walk along the beach looking for interesting shells, and there can be few better places for doing this than the appropriately named Shell Island - or Mochras to the Welsh - just off the coast to the south of Harlech.  The island, which was formed when a local landowner diverted the River Artro, is actually more of a peninsula, accessible via a causeway.  Care should be taken because it is a tidal causeway which is subject to flooding at high tide.  There are over 200 kinds of shells to be found here, including oyster, scallop, razor cockle, cowrie and many others.  The shells are brought onto the island by offshore currents and by winter storms.  There is a campsite at Shell Island with the same name which is one of the largest in Europe, and if you want to find out more about the shells found here there is a display on them in the snack bar.  Just inland the village of Llanbedr has an interesting 16th century church with a stone which was found in the hills nearby showing a spiral pattern thought to date from the Bronze Age. The church also has examples of the so-called Brute Angels, stone memorials created by a family of stonemasons called Brute decorated with angels.

Map of the area.

Northern Tip of Shell Island - geograph.org.uk - 1425708. Photo by Nigel Mykura, via Wikimedia Commons.

HARLECH

Judging by its elevated position, affording a commanding view of the narrow coastal plain below, of the surrounding mountains and across the open sea to the Llyn Peninsula, Harlech Castle, built by Edward I in the late 13th century as part of his 'iron ring', should have done a pretty good job of defending the surrounding area and keeping the Welsh at bay.  However, it did not stop Owain Glyndwr from taking the castle in 1404.  The lengthy siege which ensued during the Wars of the Roses was the inspiration for the song 'Men of Harlech' ("Men of Harlech, march to glory//Victory is hov'ring o'er ye" is how the stirring, belligerent lyrics begin).  The seaward side of the castle is mounted on a steep cliff which, in Harlech's heyday as a stronghold, would have had the sea much closer to hand than now, since the waters of Tremadog Bay have receded in the intervening centuries. 

The small town adjoining the castle, rather than cowering under it as with many such towns, is similarly high up and includes a pleasant mix of shops, cafes and pubs set among its steep, winding streets.  The town provided inspiration for the poet Robert Graves, who was a frequent visitor.  Harlech also featured in the Welsh medieval work of literature Mabinogion, which tells the mythological story of Branwen, daughter of Llyr.  The Two Kings museum is adjacent to the castle. Golfers can visit the Royal St David's course with the ever-present castle watching over it.

Map of the area. 

Harlech Castle - geograph.org.uk - 676139. Photo by Peter Humphreys, via Wikimedia Commons.

PORTMEIRION

If I were a British secret agent who had been gassed in my London apartment and transported to a location at the other end of the country, I can think of worse places to wake up than Portmeirion.  This stunning location on the west coast of Wales will forever be associated with a quirky TV series first shown in 1967 called The Prisoner.  The main character, No. 6 (I am not a number, I am a free man), played by Patrick McGoohan, has just resigned from his job as a secret agent and the "prison" he ends up in following the gassing, known simply as The Village, is set in Portmeirion which, with its incongruous but lovely Italianate architecture and features, makes a suitably offbeat location for this rather oddball series which explores issues around identity and control.  

When I visited Portmeirion back in the 1980s it was a beautiful sunny day and I was completely entranced by the village, with its beautiful views of the Dwyryd Estuary and its elegant buildings and gardens.  The village was the creation of an architect called Clough Williams-Ellis, and the inspiration for its appearance arose from a holiday in Portofino taken by the architect in the 1920s.  There is a central piazza with food outlets and shops (including one, inevitably, selling Prisoner merchandise - I think I've still got my "I am not a number" teeshirt somewhere).  Portmeirion is famous for its pottery, which is also on sale. There are lovely walks through the gardens and woods leading to a sandy beach.  Fronting the estuary are a harbour and an upmarket hotel and self-catering cottages.  The grounds of the estate include Castell Deudraeth, a Victorian mansion which offers further accommodation.  A stay at Portmeirion will stretch the bank balace, but would make a wonderful venue for a special occastion such as an anniversary.

Live streaming webcam views of Portmeirion.

Map of the area.

PortmeirionLB37. Photo by Lesbardd, via Wikimedia Commons. 

PORTHMADOG

If you are a fan of heritage railways, Porthmadog makes an excellent base for a break in North Wales.  The town is the terminus of not one, but two heritage railways, both of which run through some of the country's most spectacular mountain scenery.  The Welsh Highland Railway, which we previously met at its other end in Caernarvon, follows a beautiful route past the foot of Mount Snowdon, stopping off at the pretty village of Beddgelert, and scattering nervous sheep and lambs in its wake.  The Ffestiniog Railway heads inland, crossing the Glaslyn Estuary and climbing up through the mountains to the old slate mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog.  The Porthmadog Harbour railway station has recently undergone an expensive revamp, and there will be an official opening ceremony on 22 May, although the first trains from the two heritage railways have already started running from the station.

Porthmadog gets its name from William Madocks, who built a sea wall in 1811 in order to reclaim land for agricultural use.  The wall, known as The Cob, is the one used by the Ffestiniog Railway to cross the estuary.  The building of the wall led to the formation of a natural harbour, and this became an important port for the export of slate from Ffestiniog, as well as a shipbuilding centre.  The Maritime Museum tells the story of this seafaring past.  The estuary is a haven for wildlife, including migrating birds, and the view inland from The Cob is breathtaking, with the mountains of Snowdonia gracing the horizon.  There is a waterside arts centre called Y Ganolfan for cultured types.  

Webcam view of Porthmadog Station.

Map of the area. 

Eryri from the Porthmadog Cob - geograph.org.uk - 17286. Photo by Gareth Hughes, via Wikimedia Commons.

CRICCIETH

Criccieth's neat Victorian terraces are dominated by the ruins of its castle, high up on a grassy headland overlooking the bay.  The castle was built by the Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd in the 13th century, but passed to the English when it was captured by Edward I in 1283.  However, the Welsh managed to grab it back in 1404, when it was taken by Owain Glyndwr during his rebellion.  The damage done to the castle during the final siege are still visible today in the form of cracks in the stonework.  The castle is run by Cadw, and has a visitor centre with an exhibition on castles built by the Welsh princes and on the 12th-century churchman Gerald of Wales, aka Giraldus Cambrensis.  The artist JMW Turner was inspired to paint the castle as a dramatic backdrop to a stormy scene with shipwrecked mariners being pulled from the sea in a painting titled simply Criccieth Castle.

To either side of the headland there are sand and pebble beaches, backed by a sea wall which shelters the seafront hotels.  The town, which is a popular family resort, has a pleasant mix of shops selling works by local artists, crafts and jewellery, and there is a terrific ice cream shop just below the castle.  The centrepoint of the town is the former medieval common known as Y Maes, and this is the venue for the annual Fairs held in early summer, one in May and another in June.  The Fairs date from the 13th century, and consist of a market, a funfair and much evening revelry.  A short distance from Criccieth is the village of Llanystumdwy, where former British Prime Minister David Lloyd George grew up.  There is a museum dedicated to him in the village, and he is also buried there.

Map of the area.

CriciethLB03. Photo by Lesbardd, via Wikimedia Commons.

PWLLHELI

This market town's rather exotic looking name simply means 'salt-water pool' (pwll=pool, heli=salt-water or brine) and derives from the fact that during medieval times the borough was sited next to a large tidal pool.  The port was once a big ship-building centre, launching over 460 ships during the period 1759-1878.  At the start of the 20th century around 100 ships a year were sailing in and out of Pwllheli, exporting agricultural produce and importing coal.  Wine from the continent also used to be imported through here, and smuggling was a major part of the economy.  However, the siltation of the harbour and the rise of the railways brought about the demise of the port's shipping activities.  During the war, the site near Pwllheli now occupied by the Haven holiday park was a training centre for the Admiralty and Merchant Navy known as HMS Glendower.  In 1947 the site was transformed into a Butlin's holiday camp with, at its height, a maximum capacity of 8,000.  A miniature railway and a chairlift were installed for transporting the guests, and an extensive programme of entertainment was laid on, including none other than Ringo Starr in his pre-Beatles days, performing with his band Rory Storm and the Hurricanes.

Nowadays, Pwllheli is a busy market town with an open-air market on Wednesdays, and Sundays in the summer.  The town's Blue Flag beaches are mainly south-facing, and there is a promenade backed by pastel-coloured terraced houses.  The town is also a magnet for sailors, and is classed as a 'European Centre of Excellence' in sailing, with a 400-berth marina.  The Sailing Club hosts both national and international sailing events.  A new Sailing Academy is planned for the town, although this has been hit by delays due to technical problems and the opening is scheduled for 2015.

Map of the area.

Harbwr Pwllheli Harbour - geograph.org.uk - 547670. Photo by Alan Fryer, via Wikimedia Commons.

LLANBEDROG

Llanbedrog is a village of two halves, divided by the A499 road.  The upper part has a couple of pubs, camping and other facilities, while the lower part of the village has a beautiful, sheltered beach dominated by the Mynydd Tir-y-Cwmwd headland.  The beach is owned by the National Trust, so there is parking which is free to members plus toilets, a cafe and a gift shop, as well as some attractive National Trust beach huts available for hire.  The beach is popular with dog owners, and the water is shallow and safe for children.  Steep steps lead up to the top of the headland, from where there are stunning views.  There is a statue at the top called "The Weary Traveller" which was originally a wooden ship's figurehead, but has been replaced twice due to the twin evils of the weather and vandalism.  The new one, otherwise known as the "Tin Man", is made of strips of metal, and its design causes it to make a sound described as "singing in the wind". Llanbedrog used to be connected to Pwllheli by a tramway, but most of the track has now gone.  Back in the village, St Pedrog's Church, named after the saint who also gave the village its name, is thought to date back to the 5th century, when the saint arrived here.  The church hall houses exhibitions during the summer.  Just to the south of the village is Plas Glyn-y-weddw, which is an arts gallery and residential centre.

Map of the area.

The beach at Llanbedrog - geograph.org.uk - 1634597. Photo by Colin Park, via Wikimedia Commons.

ABERSOCH

The former fishing village of Abersoch was first visited by tourists in the early 1900s, but it took several decades for it to become firmly established as a resort, due in large part to its lovely beaches and views.  Today, Abersoch is particularly popular with the boating fraternity as well as with windsurfers and jet-skiers.  The proximity of the excellent surfing to be had in Hell's Mouth (see previous post) adds to its popularity, making it the busiest resort on the Llyn Peninsula.  The resort's popularity has led to huge increases in property prices, making it one of only 20 places in Wales with average prices of more than £300,000.  Abersoch gets its name from the River Soch (Afon Soch), which flows out of here.  There are two sandy beaches separated by a headland, the southern one backed by sanddunes and a golf course, while the northern one, The Warren, stretches as far as the Trwyn Llanbedrog headland.  The Welsh privateer, Sir Henry Morgan, better known as Captain Morgan, used to call in at Abersoch on his way from his exploits in the Caribbean, staying at a cottage on the outskirts.  

One mile west of Abersoch is the village of Llangian, with St Cian's Church.  There is a pillar stone which was evidently a grave-slab dating from the 5th-6th century with the Latin inscription MELI MEDICI MARTINI IACIT, or 'stone of Melus the Doctor son of Martinus'.  It is believed to be the only ancient stone in Wales recalling a person's profession, and it is the earliest surviving mention of a doctor in Wales.  

For a list of events in Abersoch see here. 

Webcam views of the resort.

Map of the area.

The harbour from Pont Abersoch - geograph.org.uk - 645773. Photo by Eric Jones, via Wikimedia Commons.

HELL'S MOUTH

Hell's Mouth, otherwise known as Porth Neigwl, is a suitably scary name for this bay on the south coast of the Llyn Peninsula.  Facing south-west, and therefore right in the firing line of the prevailing winds in this part of the world, the bay has struck fear into the hearts of many a seaman passing by.  Together with dangerous offshore currents, the gales blowing in from the south-west have claimed many lives over the years. Around 30 vessels have come to grief off this coast due to this perilous combination.  Occasionally the locals would benefit from the cargo let loose from the ships.  In 1877 the 'Idea' came ashore at Hell's Mouth together with its cargo of potatoes from Ireland.  The local people gathered the potatoes and planted them in their gardens, leading to a record crop for that year.  When the 'Faith' ran aground in 1896 with a cargo of flour an auction was held on the beach to sell off the flour to local families.  However, in its more benign moods the bay is a perfect sandy crescent which is very popular with surfers keen to make the most of the swell.  In fact, Hell's Mouth is widely regarded as the best beach in Wales for surfing.  Ordinary swimmers should take care; only the strongest should brave the water here.  The nearby village of Llanengan has a 15th century church and a pub. The churchyard has a memorial to mark the graves of the many bodies that came ashore at Hell's Mouth from stricken ships, in particular during the First World War.

Webcam showing surfing conditions.

Map of the area.

Aberdaron - Porth Neigwl - geograph.org.uk - 1612799. Photo by Ken Bagnall, via Wikimedia Commons.

ABERDARON

The winter of 2013/2014 will be remembered by a lot of people for all the wrong reasons.  The British coast, particularly the western fringes, was subjected to a seemingly endless succession of violent storms, causing millions of pounds of damage and tragic loss of life.  During one of the storms, which took place on 12 February and was dubbed "wild Wednesday", Aberdaron made the national news for recording gusts of wind of 112 miles an hour.  I once spent a long weekend in Aberdaron, and while the village was delightful, it certainly felt like it was at the edge of nowhere, positioned as it is almost at the end of the Llyn Peninsula, and it is easy to see why it got such a battering given the direction of the winds that day.  Aberdaron is a fishing village with a cluster of whitewashed cottages and two excellent 'gwestys' (inns) facing each other, one of which has a delightful terrace with views of the beach and across the sea to Bardsey Island.  The Church of St Hywyn has a sea wall around it for protection, which is needed as coastal erosion has caused its location to edge closer to the shore.  Keen walkers can take the pilgrim path from Aberdaron to Mynydd Mawr, the southwestern tip of the peninsula, which reaches a height of 160m.  During the Second World War there was a lookout station here with hundreds of military personnel keeping watch for German ships and planes.  It was an appropriate spot for such an outfit, offering stunning views in all directions.

Two miles off the mainland, Bardsey Island is a National Nature Reserve, and can be visited on boat trips from Aberdaron.  After the Romans left Britain, the island was used as a refuge by early Christians, and it later became a pilgrimage site, leading to it being known as the "Isle of 20,000 Saints" for the number of pilgrims buried there.  Farmhouses on the island have been converted into holiday accommodation for those wanting to make the most of their visit.  There is a variety of birdlife on the island, but it is most closely associated with the Manx Shearwater, with a breeding colony of 10-16,000 birds.  Other species to watch out for are marine creatures such as seals, harbour porpoises and dolphins, and there are rare flowering plants among the island's flora.  

Map of the area. 

Aberdaron from the coast path - geograph.org.uk - 1005093. Photo by Gordon Hatton, via Wikimedia Commons.

PORTH OER

Who can resist a beach with the nickname "Whistling Sands"? This is the intriguing name which has been bestowed upon Porth Oer, due to the fact that if you walk over the sand on this beautiful beach you will hear a 'whistling' or 'squeaking' sound as the dry white grains of quartz rub against each other.  The grains are a peculiar shape, which contributes to the effect. The beach is one of only two beaches in Europe where such a phenomenon can be witnessed.  This natural wonder takes place in a small cove towards the western end of the Llyn Peninsula which is hemmed in by rocky headlands.  The clifftops leading away from Porth Oer are a joy to walk along, following the easy coastal paths.  Adjacent to Porth Oer is Porth Iago, a small cresent shaped bay which is popular for surfing and diving.  Just inland from these coastal delights is the Bronze Age hillfort of Castell Odo, one of the most important archaeological sites in Wales.  The fort was probably built by Celts coming across the Irish Sea around 400BC.  

The beach at Porth Oer (Whistling Sands) - geograph.org.uk - 1288854. Photo by Eirian Evans, via Wikimedia Commons.

NEFYN AND PORTHDINLLAEN

The town of Nefyn lies on a sandy bay on the north coast of the Llyn Peninsula, with the fishing hamlet of Porth Nefyn at one end nestling under the Penrhyn Nefyn headland.  The town was the venue for a tournament held by Edward I of England in 1284 in celebration of his victory over the Welsh.  There is an ancient Iron Age Hill Fort called Garn Boduan overlooking the town which has been dated back to 300BC.  In the next bay along, the smaller Morfa Nefyn and the tiny harbour village of Porthdinllaen share a curved sandy beach.  A golf course overlooking the bay has been built on the site of another Iron Age Hill Fort, Trwyn Dinllaen, which dates from around 100BC.   

Looking at the tiny port of Porthdinllaen, it is hard to believe that at one time it was an important shipping centre for the trade with Ireland, with over 700 ships making use of it at the height of these activities.  The village even had pretensions to become the main departure point for Ireland in the early 19th century, but Holyhead on Anglesey got the upper hand, leaving Porthdinllaen in its present tranquil state.  The main draw nowadays is the Ty Coch Inn right on the water's edge, probably one of the best known pubs in Wales.  Built from red brick in 1823, it was originally a vicarage, but after the vicar moved to another dwelling in 1942 the building was turned into an inn, catering for the men engaged in the local shipbuilding industry.  The inn was used in the film Half Light starring Demi Moore (see the entry for Malltraeth, 19 March 2014).  Adjacent to Porthdinllaen is Lifeboat Bay, home to the Porthdinllaen Lifeboat, which has a long history of saving lives at sea.  The whole area around Porthdinllaen and Lifeboat Bay is now owned by the National Trust. 

Live streaming webcam view from Ty Coch Inn

Map of the area.

PorthdinllaenLB16. Photo by Lesbardd, via Wikimedia Commons.

CLYNNOG FAWR

I remember the first time I clapped eyes on the Llyn Peninsula from a distance, there was something about its romantic, mountainous shape shimmering on the horizon that made me want to go there.  When I finally did go a few years later it didn't disappoint, and it now occupies a place on my list of favourite parts of the British coast.  Clynnog Fawr is at the north-east end of the peninsula, and its main draw is one of  the best known churches in Wales.  Founded by St Beuno in the 7th century with the present building dating from the 16th century, the church was visited by pilgrims as they made their way to Bardsey Island just off the far end of the peninsula.  Local farmers used to make a split in the ears of their lambs or calves, a feature known as 'Beuno's Mark', and they paid money to the church.  The wooden trunk that held the money is still inside the church and is known as 'St Beuno's Chest'.  South of the village by a roadside is St Beuno's Well, yielding up water once thought to have healing properties.  After consuming the well's water, the hopeful sick used to complete the treatment by spending the night on the saint's tomb inside the church.  The beach at Clynnog Fawr, reached by paths from the village, is stony, but with sandy patches and rockpools when the tide is out.  Near the village is Dolmen (or Cromlech) Bachwen, a Neolithic burial chamber with a highly decorated capstone.

Map of the area.

Cromlech Bach Wen - geograph.org.uk - 243519. Photo by Eric Jones, via Wikimedia Commons.

CAERNARFON

On 1st July 1969, in the grounds of Caernarfon Castle, a royal event took place with the Queen clad in pale yellow standing before her kneeling eldest son.  The event, which was beamed onto television screens all over the country, was the Investiture of the Prince of Wales, a long-held tradition in which the heir apparent receives the Insignia of his Principality, consisting of a sword, coronet, mantle, gold ring and gold rod.  The castle, built in 1283 as part of Edward I's 'ring of iron', was a fitting venue for the event, being the best preserved of the castles in the 'ring', with some of the most forbidding fortifications.  The castle incorporates the regimental museum of the Royal Welch Fusiliers, housed within the Queen's Tower.  

The Castle

The central part of the town of Caernarfon lies within the walls which were built during the years following the castle's construction.  In the narrow streets running out from the main square are a range of shops, pubs and restaurants.  There is a quayside area adjacent to the castle which is a departure point for pleasure boat trips and fishing trips.  Near this area is the railway station, which is the terminus of the magnificent Welsh Highland Railway route which takes visitors through the mountains to Porthmadog.  On the outskirts of the town lie the remains of the Segontium Roman Fort, run by Cadw.  The foundations of the barracks which housed 1,000 troops can still be seen, while the museum has displays of coins and pottery found on the site.

Sunset over Anglesey, from Victoria Dock

Live streaming webcam views.

Map of the area.

BANGOR

Bangor in the county of Gwynedd is a small university city on the Menai Strait facing Anglesey.  The city dates from AD 548 when the Cathedral was founded by St Deiniol.  The cathedral's location in a low-lying site, making it difficult to discern from a distance, is thought to have been a deliberate attempt to avoid attracting the attention of raiders coming from the sea.  Continuing the religious theme, there is a Bible Garden next to the Cathedral, so called because it was created with plants referred to in the Bible.  Storiel (previously the Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery) covers the history of North Wales from prehistoric times.  Out in the strait, an ornate pier named Garth Pier sticks out over halfway across this body of water, a length of 1,500 feet, making this grade II listed structure the second longest pier in Wales and the ninth longest in the British Isles.  There are a couple of little shops on the pier and a cafe at the end.   Just to the east of Bangor is Port Penrhyn, or Porth Penrhyn in Welsh, which was built in the 19th century for the export of slate, but is now used by pleasure craft.

Bangor Pier (1). Photo by Talsarnau Times, via Wikimedia Commons.

On a hill just outside Bangor, and occupying a commanding position overlooking the Menai Strait, is Penrhyn Castle, run by the National Trust.  Visitors who expect to see a crumbling medieval stronghold will be disappointed, since the 'castle' was only built in the 19th century.  The neo-Norman pile was designed in 1820 by Thomas Hopper for the Pennant family.  The interior of the building includes elaborate stone carvings and there are paintings by artists including Rembrandt and Canaletto.  The stables have been given over to a railway museum and a doll museum.  In the sloping grounds are a ruined medieval chapel and a pet cemetery, not to mention the wonderful views along the coast to the Great Orme and the stunning Snowdonia backdrop.

View from Penrhyn Castle

Map of the area.

CHRISTMAS SPECIAL: MY FAVOURITE SEASIDE PUBS

Going to the pub is one of the pleasures of a visit to the British seaside, and at Christmas the pub comes into its own. Whether you have been for a bracing walk along the seafront with a fierce souwesterly hurling seaspray across your path, or whether you have spent a pleasant interlude pottering around a harbourside, dodging the waves crashing over the harbour wall, there is only one place to head for to warm up: a cosy pub with a roaring fire, the heady aroma of hearty pub food and mulled wine, a clutch of local characters of varying degrees of eccentricity putting the world to rights and a jolly array of Christmas decorations and lights. The following is a list of my personal favourites, but it is by no means exhaustive. I would be delighted to hear about other people's beloved seaside pubs, so feel free to add yours to the list via the comments.

Penzance, Cornwall: The Turks Head

I had to start with my home town, and of all the pubs there it had to be the Turks Head. The oldest pub in Penzance, and situated in its most historic street, the pub is entered via a small door in its white facade, and is on two levels, with the bar on the ground floor and extra tables for eating downstairs. The good pub fare on offer includes a range of excellent fish and seafood options. The pub dates from the 13th century and has seen its fair share of action over the years, including part of the building being burnt down during the Spanish invasion of the 16th century, and the activities of smugglers making use of the tunnel leading from the pub directly to the harbour.

Polperro, Cornwall: The Blue Peter

Wandering through the impossibly picturesque streets of this Cornish fishing town you pass a series of increasingly inviting restaurants, cafes and pubs. Then, just when you think you've seen them all you come to the Blue Peter, right at the bottom corner of the village, overlooking the harbour. As well as a range of ales, ciders and wines, including mulled wine at Christmas, the pub offers meals and frequent live music, which has always been excellent when we have been there. Be careful on the way out: the only exit from the pub is not through the door at the front, but via a substantial flight of stone steps to the side. I shudder to think of the accidents that must have taken place on those steps.

Dartmouth, Devon: The Cherub

The Cherub is equally appealing outside and in, with its quaint black-and-white exterior and rickety interior with a roaring fire in winter. The building, the oldest in Dartmouth, dates from the 14th century and is thought to have been a Merchant's House originally, however it was in relatively recent times that it became a pub. Upstairs, the restaurant does a nice line in fine dining, while lighter bar snacks are also available.

Seatown, Dorset: The Anchor Inn

Whether you've spent the morning huffing and puffing up and down the roller coaster clifftop paths on this part of the Dorset coast, or whether you've been wandering along the palaeontologist's dream of a beach, head down, fossicking for fossils, relief is close at hand in the form of the Anchor Inn, marvellously situated overlooking the beach, near the cliff's edge. In summer there are outside tables to enjoy the view from, but in winter it's all about wood-burning stoves and good value, warming pub food.

Lymington, Hampshire: The Kings Head

We stayed in Lymington a couple of years ago in the month of October, a time of year when I start to yearn for hearty, warming comfort food, ideally served in cosy candlelit surroundings with a lively, convivial atmosphere, and the Kings Head delivered on all counts. Occupying the top end of a quaint little street leading down to the harbour and marina, this pub also satisfied on the drinks front, serving my husband's favourite ale (London Pride) and my favourite cider (Aspalls).

Whitstable, Kent: The Old Neptune

I have to be honest. The beach at Whitstable is not going to win any beauty contests, but the sunsets just might. And the best place to view one of them is on a bench outside the Old Neptune or Neppy to its regulars, which occupies a prime position right on the beach. In fact, given its precarious location it is a miracle that there is still a pub there. The original building is long since gone, washed away by a storm in 1897, the second time that century that it had taken a lashing. However, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the pub was rebuilt, although it still retains a somewhat fragile appearance. The interior of the pub has a pleasingly lived-in look, and attracts an eclectic clientele. The walls are covered with an array of interesting artwork and photographs of celebrities such as Iggy Pop. Continuing the celebrity theme, scenes from the film Venus starring Peter O'Toole were shot in the Old Neptune bar. Live music is a regular feature at weekends, which always makes for a good atmosphere.

(Sorry, bit of a crap picture!)

Aldeburgh, Suffolk: Ye Olde Cross Keys

In a town full of quaint buildings, Ye Olde Cross Keys is one of the quaintest. Set slightly back from the seafront, the pub is perfectly placed to be dived into after a bracing walk along Aldeburgh's beach. Cosy and inviting inside, with a roaring log fire, the pub serves locally caught seafood washed down with Adnams ale. One evening during our stay in Aldeburgh we found ourselves sharing the bar with a large group of young musicians, not surprising in this town, which is famous for its musical connections, most notably its association with Benjamin Britten.

Whitby, North Yorkshire: The Duke of York

Ideally situated as a bolt hole after descending the steps from Whitby Abbey, the Duke of York has a history stretching back 1,000 years to the days when the monks landed their produce from the sea at this spot before taking it up to the monastery. You can satisfy the inevitable hunger and thirst produced from walking up and down all those steps courtesy of the pub's decent standard pub fare and local ales, while enjoying fabulous views of the harbour.

Seahouses, Northumberland: The Olde Ship Inn

I fell in love with the Olde Ship during two self-catering weeks in Seahouses, especially the main bar, which is stuffed full of nautical photographs and artefacts. Unfortunately, the pub's popularity proved to be its downfall on weekend nights, when the main bar could get uncomfortably crowded. During the summer, relief is at hand in the form of a small garden out the back. I have not experienced the pub during the winter, but I'm sure it would be the perfect place to head for after pottering around the harbour or going for a long walk along the fabulous beach between Seahouses and Bamburgh. The Olde Ship also offers accommodation and serves meals in a separate restaurant area.

Inverary, Argyll and Bute: The George Hotel

The George Hotel is a historic coaching inn. We were so taken with it on a visit to Scotland a few years ago that we drove all the way over from Loch Awe to have an evening meal there, something my husband does not do lightly. As the pub's website suggests, it owes its existence to the architects Adam and Milne, who were responsible for Scotland's first planned town.

Caernarvon, Gwynedd: The Black Boy

Although just a minute's walk from Caernarvon's famous castle, the Black Boy is tucked away in a narrow side street, so it may take some unearthing. However, it is worth the effort, as the main bar provides a welcome respite from Caernarvon's lively weekend atmosphere, and the restaurant is a popular feeding post for those in search of decent British pub food.

Porthgain, Pembrokeshire: The Sloop Inn

I have only visited the Sloop during the springtime, but I can well imagine diving into it after an invigorating winter walk on the Pembrokeshire coast path, which passes through here. Porthgain has an interesting past as a quarry port, offloading slate from the surrounding areas. The interior of the Sloop has bags of character, and the food is pretty good too.

Lynmouth, Devon: The Rising Sun

The Rising Sun ticks all the boxes for a traditional harbourside inn, although it is also an upmarket hotel, occupying a whole row of cottages in this prime location by the side of Lynmouth harbour. We once spent a lovely New Years Eve at the Rising Sun, culminating in a 60s singalong to the live musician in the main bar. Every time I hear You've Lost That Loving Feeling by the Righteous Brothers it reminds me of that night!

St Ives, Cornwall: The Sloop Inn

The Sloop Inn in St Ives occupies a superb harbourfront location, nestling among the bars, restaurants, gift shops and amusement arcades. At Christmas it is ablaze with lights and decorations, and there is a range of delicious seafood specials on offer as well as mulled cider, a welcome change from the usual mulled wine.