CHRISTMAS SPECIAL: MY FAVOURITE SEASIDE PUBS

Going to the pub is one of the pleasures of a visit to the British seaside, and at Christmas the pub comes into its own. Whether you have been for a bracing walk along the seafront with a fierce souwesterly hurling seaspray across your path, or whether you have spent a pleasant interlude pottering around a harbourside, dodging the waves crashing over the harbour wall, there is only one place to head for to warm up: a cosy pub with a roaring fire, the heady aroma of hearty pub food and mulled wine, a clutch of local characters of varying degrees of eccentricity putting the world to rights and a jolly array of Christmas decorations and lights. The following is a list of my personal favourites, but it is by no means exhaustive. I would be delighted to hear about other people's beloved seaside pubs, so feel free to add yours to the list via the comments.

Penzance, Cornwall: The Turks Head

I had to start with my home town, and of all the pubs there it had to be the Turks Head. The oldest pub in Penzance, and situated in its most historic street, the pub is entered via a small door in its white facade, and is on two levels, with the bar on the ground floor and extra tables for eating downstairs. The good pub fare on offer includes a range of excellent fish and seafood options. The pub dates from the 13th century and has seen its fair share of action over the years, including part of the building being burnt down during the Spanish invasion of the 16th century, and the activities of smugglers making use of the tunnel leading from the pub directly to the harbour.

Polperro, Cornwall: The Blue Peter

Wandering through the impossibly picturesque streets of this Cornish fishing town you pass a series of increasingly inviting restaurants, cafes and pubs. Then, just when you think you've seen them all you come to the Blue Peter, right at the bottom corner of the village, overlooking the harbour. As well as a range of ales, ciders and wines, including mulled wine at Christmas, the pub offers meals and frequent live music, which has always been excellent when we have been there. Be careful on the way out: the only exit from the pub is not through the door at the front, but via a substantial flight of stone steps to the side. I shudder to think of the accidents that must have taken place on those steps.

Dartmouth, Devon: The Cherub

The Cherub is equally appealing outside and in, with its quaint black-and-white exterior and rickety interior with a roaring fire in winter. The building, the oldest in Dartmouth, dates from the 14th century and is thought to have been a Merchant's House originally, however it was in relatively recent times that it became a pub. Upstairs, the restaurant does a nice line in fine dining, while lighter bar snacks are also available.

Seatown, Dorset: The Anchor Inn

Whether you've spent the morning huffing and puffing up and down the roller coaster clifftop paths on this part of the Dorset coast, or whether you've been wandering along the palaeontologist's dream of a beach, head down, fossicking for fossils, relief is close at hand in the form of the Anchor Inn, marvellously situated overlooking the beach, near the cliff's edge. In summer there are outside tables to enjoy the view from, but in winter it's all about wood-burning stoves and good value, warming pub food.

Lymington, Hampshire: The Kings Head

We stayed in Lymington a couple of years ago in the month of October, a time of year when I start to yearn for hearty, warming comfort food, ideally served in cosy candlelit surroundings with a lively, convivial atmosphere, and the Kings Head delivered on all counts. Occupying the top end of a quaint little street leading down to the harbour and marina, this pub also satisfied on the drinks front, serving my husband's favourite ale (London Pride) and my favourite cider (Aspalls).

Whitstable, Kent: The Old Neptune

I have to be honest. The beach at Whitstable is not going to win any beauty contests, but the sunsets just might. And the best place to view one of them is on a bench outside the Old Neptune or Neppy to its regulars, which occupies a prime position right on the beach. In fact, given its precarious location it is a miracle that there is still a pub there. The original building is long since gone, washed away by a storm in 1897, the second time that century that it had taken a lashing. However, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the pub was rebuilt, although it still retains a somewhat fragile appearance. The interior of the pub has a pleasingly lived-in look, and attracts an eclectic clientele. The walls are covered with an array of interesting artwork and photographs of celebrities such as Iggy Pop. Continuing the celebrity theme, scenes from the film Venus starring Peter O'Toole were shot in the Old Neptune bar. Live music is a regular feature at weekends, which always makes for a good atmosphere.

(Sorry, bit of a crap picture!)

Aldeburgh, Suffolk: Ye Olde Cross Keys

In a town full of quaint buildings, Ye Olde Cross Keys is one of the quaintest. Set slightly back from the seafront, the pub is perfectly placed to be dived into after a bracing walk along Aldeburgh's beach. Cosy and inviting inside, with a roaring log fire, the pub serves locally caught seafood washed down with Adnams ale. One evening during our stay in Aldeburgh we found ourselves sharing the bar with a large group of young musicians, not surprising in this town, which is famous for its musical connections, most notably its association with Benjamin Britten.

Whitby, North Yorkshire: The Duke of York

Ideally situated as a bolt hole after descending the steps from Whitby Abbey, the Duke of York has a history stretching back 1,000 years to the days when the monks landed their produce from the sea at this spot before taking it up to the monastery. You can satisfy the inevitable hunger and thirst produced from walking up and down all those steps courtesy of the pub's decent standard pub fare and local ales, while enjoying fabulous views of the harbour.

Seahouses, Northumberland: The Olde Ship Inn

I fell in love with the Olde Ship during two self-catering weeks in Seahouses, especially the main bar, which is stuffed full of nautical photographs and artefacts. Unfortunately, the pub's popularity proved to be its downfall on weekend nights, when the main bar could get uncomfortably crowded. During the summer, relief is at hand in the form of a small garden out the back. I have not experienced the pub during the winter, but I'm sure it would be the perfect place to head for after pottering around the harbour or going for a long walk along the fabulous beach between Seahouses and Bamburgh. The Olde Ship also offers accommodation and serves meals in a separate restaurant area.

Inverary, Argyll and Bute: The George Hotel

The George Hotel is a historic coaching inn. We were so taken with it on a visit to Scotland a few years ago that we drove all the way over from Loch Awe to have an evening meal there, something my husband does not do lightly. As the pub's website suggests, it owes its existence to the architects Adam and Milne, who were responsible for Scotland's first planned town.

Caernarvon, Gwynedd: The Black Boy

Although just a minute's walk from Caernarvon's famous castle, the Black Boy is tucked away in a narrow side street, so it may take some unearthing. However, it is worth the effort, as the main bar provides a welcome respite from Caernarvon's lively weekend atmosphere, and the restaurant is a popular feeding post for those in search of decent British pub food.

Porthgain, Pembrokeshire: The Sloop Inn

I have only visited the Sloop during the springtime, but I can well imagine diving into it after an invigorating winter walk on the Pembrokeshire coast path, which passes through here. Porthgain has an interesting past as a quarry port, offloading slate from the surrounding areas. The interior of the Sloop has bags of character, and the food is pretty good too.

Lynmouth, Devon: The Rising Sun

The Rising Sun ticks all the boxes for a traditional harbourside inn, although it is also an upmarket hotel, occupying a whole row of cottages in this prime location by the side of Lynmouth harbour. We once spent a lovely New Years Eve at the Rising Sun, culminating in a 60s singalong to the live musician in the main bar. Every time I hear You've Lost That Loving Feeling by the Righteous Brothers it reminds me of that night!

St Ives, Cornwall: The Sloop Inn

The Sloop Inn in St Ives occupies a superb harbourfront location, nestling among the bars, restaurants, gift shops and amusement arcades. At Christmas it is ablaze with lights and decorations, and there is a range of delicious seafood specials on offer as well as mulled cider, a welcome change from the usual mulled wine.

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED

It poured with rain the day we visited Berwick-Upon-Tweed, but it didn’t stop us from walking the walls around this border town with its Georgian streets and Elizabethan fortifications, said to be the most complete to be found anywhere. The walk offers some great views over the surrounding area.  The Bell Tower, alongside the wall, was built in Elizabethan times, and is octagonal in shape set over 4 storeys.  Any town which has exchanged hands between Scotland and England no less than thirteen times is bound to have a turbulent history. It was during medieval times that most of this “pass the parcel” activity took place. The Tweed seems to form a natural border between the two countries, but most of modern-day Berwick actually lies north of the river. There are three bridges spanning the Tweed: the pink stone Jacobean Bridge dating from 1611, the Royal Border Bridge dating from 1847 and the Royal Tweed Bridge from 1925.

One man who was no stranger to the charms of the town was L. S. Lowry, who visited many times during the mid-20th century. There is a Lowry Trail which guides the visitor around the parts of the town which came to the artist’s attention, which include the south bank locations of Tweedmouth and Spittal. Berwick Barracks, dating from the 18th century, include the regimental museum of the King’s Own Scottish Borderers as well as the town’s museum and art gallery. One of the mainstays of the local economy used to be shipbuilding, but the shipyard closed in 1979. However, the memory of the shipbuilding days is kept alive in a website devoted to the industry.

Map of the area.

Berwick-Upon-Tweed. Photo by Shermozle, via Wikimedia Commons.

HOLY ISLAND

Visitors heading in a northerly direction up the coast of Northumberland from Seahouses and Bamburgh, via the nature reserves of Budle Bay and Ross Back Sands, part of the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve, will be treated to the beguiling sight of Holy Island topped with Lindisfarne Castle growing ever larger in their field of vision. Visits to the island have to be carefully timed, as it is accessible only by a causeway and only at low tide. The castle, a Tudor fort built in 1550, sits so naturally on its cone of rock that it almost seems an extension of the rock itself. The famous architect Edwin Lutyens restored the original ruined castle in 1902, converting it into a private house. The property is now run by the National Trust.

Down below lie the red sandstone ruins of Lindisfarne Priory, run by English Heritage. There was originally a monastery founded by the monk Aidan, but this was destroyed by the Danes in the 9th century. The British Library houses a relic from this time: the Lindisfarne Gospels, a magnificent example of English Celtic art. Work on the Priory began in 1093. There is a little village on the island with a cluster of cottages, a handful of shops and a couple of pubs. So all in all it is worth braving the causeway to come over here as there is plenty to see and it makes a fascinating day out.

Live streaming webcam view of the castle.   

Map of the area.

Hrad Lindisfarne - panoramio. Photo by Martin Cigler, via Wikimedia Commons.

BAMBURGH

On a wild, stormy night in 1838 a paddle steamer called SS Forfarshire was making its way from Hull to Dundee when it struck rocks off the Farne Islands, killing all but a handful of survivors who were forced to spend the night clinging desperately to rocks. As dawn broke, a local lighthouse keeper went to their aid using just a rowing boat and succeeded in getting all of them on board. But it was his 23-year-old daughter who really saved the day by steadying the boat and keeping it from dashing onto the rocks in the awful weather while her father tended to the survivors. Her name was Grace Darling, and she became a heroine as a result of her part in the rescue. Tragically, she died just three years later from tuberculosis, but her memory lives on thanks to her elaborate shrine-like tomb which can be found in the churchyard of St Aidan’s in Bamburgh. Opposite the church is the Grace Darling Museum, which includes the original rescue craft used by Grace and her father.

Walking around the village of Bamburgh, with its old stone cottages and pubs flanked by an expanse of green, it seems strangely detached from the nearby sea. The reason for this is the mighty Bamburgh Castle, which towers over everything, separating the village from its lovely sandy beach. The castle can be seen from miles around, in fact the first time I saw it, years ago, was when we were hurtling along the A1 towards Edinburgh. We were in a hurry to get to our destination, but I vowed that one day I would come back to see this amazing sight close up. The castle keep dates from the 12th century and was built by the Normans, but much of the present castle is relatively modern, having been renovated from the late 19th century by Lord Armstrong the inventor. Much further back in time, King Oswald of Northumbria made Bamburgh his capital. The village church is dedicated to St Aidan, who died at Bamburgh in AD651.

Map of the area.

Bamburgh MMB 39 Bamburgh Castle. Photo by mattbuck, via Wikimedia Commons.

THE FARNE ISLANDS

I have visited the Farne Islands twice: once in April and once in June. Early summer is an exciting time to visit the Farne Islands, a short distance offshore from Seahouses. What makes it so exciting? Pods of dolphins leaping out of the sea? Whales rearing up and spouting so close to the shore that you can feel their droplets on your face? Well no, although dolphins have been seen here, and on one occasion a humpback whale was spotted to great excitement. What makes June so exciting is the arctic tern. What, I hear you cry, the arctic tern? Yes, that’s right. You see, this is the time of year when these feisty little birds are guarding their nests, and they do not take kindly to visitors. Some birds limit themselves to a bit of a hiss or flapping of wings when confronted by unwanted intruders. Not so the arctic tern, whose modus operandi is to lurk by the pathways waiting for the approach of an unsuspecting tourist, then to suddenly rise up and swoop down, trying to peck the hapless visitor on the head with its sharp little beak. This is why some sort of headgear – a Bob The Builder hard hat would be ideal – is essential for a visit to the islands at this time of year. However, any trauma incurred by an encounter with these little terrorists will quickly be softened by the sight of their most endearing neighbours, the clownlike puffins, who are abundant here at this time, not to mention the equally charming seals who pop up out of the water to check out the passengers on arriving pleasure boats. These creatures share the islands with huge numbers of other sea birds, making this a must-do destination for twitchers.

The islands can be visited by boat from Seahouses, with a number of operators vying for visitors’ custom from their kiosks by the harbour. There are different options available, one of the most popular being the trip to Inner Farne, with the chance to spend an hour on the island. As well as the wildlife, there is a lighthouse on the island and some monastic remains dating from the time when there were monks living there. St Cuthbert spent some time on the island prior to becoming the Bishop of Lindisfarne. Another island which can be visited is Longstone Island with its lighthouse, made famous by Grace Darling and her father (of which more in my next post).

Map of the area.

Inner Farne Wide View. Photo by Pontificalibus, via Wikimedia Commons.

SEAHOUSES

I have spent two very pleasant holidays in Seahouses over the last few years, both times staying in the fishermen’s quarter adjacent to the harbour, with the excellent Swallow fishmongers tantalisingly close at hand. This small resort is probably best known as a departure point for the Farne Islands, with boat-owners competing for business from their kiosks by the harbourside – of which more in the next post. The harbour is always bustling, with the human activity interspersed with a large presence of jaunty eider ducks bobbing on the surface of the water. I love old harbourside inns with lots of nautical decor and memorabilia, and The Olde Ship Inn in Seahouses ticks all the boxes. Unfortunately, a lot of other people feel the same way, and the small front bar can get very crowded on Friday and Saturday nights.

One of the best things about Seahouses is the wonderful view up the coast. As you cast your gaze over the seemingly never-ending expanse of sandy beach heading northwards, your eye cannot help but be drawn to the magnificent sight of Bamburgh Castle, which dominates this stretch of coast. On a clear day, it is also possible to make out the romantic outline of the more petite Lindisfarne in the distance. The beach just begs to be walked along, and with Bamburgh just two miles away it makes a nice day out to make the walk to Bamburgh, have lunch in one of its excellent pubs and walk back again. For golfers, there is a Golf Club at the southern edge of the resort.

Map of the area.

Seahouses Harbour - geograph.org.uk - 1930247. Photo by Alexander P Kapp, via Wikimedia Commons.

BEADNELL

At first glance, the small harbour at Beadnell looks as if it has had some sort of fortification added to it at some point in the past. However, the large tower-like structures are actually lime kilns, the earliest of which was built in 1789. The kilns were used for heating up limestone to make lime, which was used as a soil improver. After this practice died out, a new use was found for them: curing herrings. Nowadays they act as a handy storage area for the local fishermen’s lobster pots. Another historic building in the village which was a type of tower called a ‘pele tower’, dating from the 16th century, is now part of the Craster Arms Hotel. An even earlier structure lies at Ebb’s Neuk Point to the east of the harbour: the remains of a 13th century chapel. The original chapel was reputedly built in the 7th century by Oswald, King of Northumbria, for his sister St Ebba. The parish church, originating from the 18th century, is also named after St Ebba.

Beadnell Bay is a lovely horseshoe-shaped expanse of sand backed by dunes with crabs on hand for the kids to toy with and a colony of terns. A couple of years ago, the beauty of this stretch of coastline came to the attention of the promoters of Canadian tourism who decided to use an image of it in an advertisement for Alberta, all the more bizarre given the fact that Alberta is a landlocked province!

Map of the area.

Beached boats at Beadnell - geograph.org.uk - 1929647. Photo by Oliver Dixon, via Wikimedia Commons.

LOW NEWTON BY THE SEA

Low Newton By The Sea, one of the best preserved 19th century fishing villages in Britain, offers a wonderful walk for wildlife watchers. The walk, starting from the village car park, offers the chance to observe migrant birds, waders and geese to name but a few, plus the opportunity to view grey seals hauling themselves onto rocks just offshore. The bird reseve includes hides for viewing the shore birds such as oystercatchers. Meanwhile, the beach includes a number of rock pools where creatures such as sea anenomes, limpets, crabs and starfish can be observed. The village itself, much of which is owned by the National Trust, has a square with whitewashed cottages and a historic pub arranged around a pretty village green. The pub, the Ship Inn, tucked into a corner of the square, is a cosy retreat for sampling the local fish delicacies, while the sandy beach is popular with windsurfers.

Map of the area.

Low Newton by the Sea - geograph.org.uk - 1363280. Photo by Andrea Hope, via Wikimedia Commons.

EMBLETON

The distinctive ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle are still clearly visible from the lovely bay at Embleton. Embleton has had a turbulent history, especially during the Wars Of The Roses which took place largely during the latter part of the 15th century, during which the village was attacked by Scottish invaders. A bit later in 1511, the Scottish High Admiral Andrew Barton was cruising this part of the British coast chasing after the Portuguese when his vessel was captured, and he was subsequently beheaded according to some reports, other claiming that he was killed in battle. There is a lump of sandstone in Embleton Bay known as the “Vanishing Rock”, so called because it disappears and reappears according to the vagaries of the tides. The rock has the name “Andra Barton” chiselled into it, along with others.

Embleton has a wonderful sandy beach backed by dunes, all set within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. A walk along the coastal path towards the south takes you past forty-odd wooden huts or beach bungalows. These were built in the 1930s by golfers so intent on getting the maximum amount of play in during their visit that they could not bear to be parted from the golfcourse. It is easy to see why they were so attached to this place. There can be few golfcourses enjoying a more stunning geographical position or more beautiful coastal views than the Dunstanburgh Castle Golf Club.

Map of the area.

Embleton Beach - geograph.org.uk - 36579. Photo by Christine Westerback, via Wikimedia Commons.

HOWICK AND CRASTER

On the way from Boulmer to Craster, Howick makes a worthwhile detour, with its 18th century mansion Howick Hall boasting wonderful terraced gardens, woods full of rhododendrons and wildlife which includes the increasingly elusive red squirrel. The Hall was the home of former Prime Minister Earl Grey, whose family history stretches back to the 14th century. It was also the birthplace of Earl Grey tea, blended by a Chinese mandarin for Charles, 2nd Earl Grey. The history of Howick goes back much further than the Grey family. It is here that archaeologists have unearthed the earliest Mesolithic round-house ever found in Britain.

Craster is a traditional fishing village which is famous for its smoked fish delicacies such as smoked kippers and smoked salmon, which are prepared on the premises of L. Robson and Sons. The local kipper pate can be sampled in the harbourside pub, The Jolly Fisherman, which is also known for its crab sandwiches. A short walk from the village, following a grassy shore dotted with sheep, will take you to the impossibly romantic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, run jointly by the National Trust and English Heritage. Begun by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster in 1313, the castle’s gatehouse was converted into the keep in 1380 by John of Gaunt, once the most powerful man in England. The castle was the scene of ferocious battles during the Wars of the Roses, and it was after this period that it went into a decline. Of all the castles in Northumberland this is my personal favourite. There’s just something incredibly haunting about this place. The first time we went there, we picked our way through groups of lambs running excitedly down to the shore, their worried mums following on behind. After visiting the castle, on the way back down, a sudden and unexpected sea mist rolled in, and looking back up towards the castle it made an incredible sight as it swirled around the ruins.

Map of the area.

Craster Cottages - geograph.org.uk - 1363253. Photo by Andrea Hope, via Wikimedia Commons.

BOULMER

Boulmer is blessed with a natural harbour formed from a gap in the offshore rocks between Longhoughton Steel and Seaton Point, although there is no actual manmade harbour, so the boats, which include the traditional ‘cobles’ of the area, have to be hauled ashore or moored in the water. At one time the village was known as the smuggling capital of Northumberland. It was particularly popular with Scottish smugglers, and was best known for its illicit trade in alcohol such as gin, possibly because of a verse describing how one of the Scots, Wull Faa, got into a scrap with a custom’s man on one of his smuggling trips: "There is a canny Will Faa o' Kirk Yetholm, He lives at the sign o' the Queen; He got a great slash i' the hand. When comin' frae Boulmer wi' gin'". Another verse has a go at one Jimmy Turner: "Jimmy Turner of Ford did not think it a sin, to saddle his horse on a Sunday and ride to Boulmer for gin". A large proportion of the villagers were complicit in the trade, and there is one story of a woman sitting on a barrel of liquor wearing a full skirt with the aim of hiding it from the customs men. Salt was another commodity popular with the smugglers, and anyone caught carrying a sack of it would find their bundle on the receiving end of the customs man’s knife, their cargo spilling all over the place. As is usually the case, the village pub, the Fishing Boat Inn, was the local HQ of the smugglers.

Apart from being a delightful place for a quiet coastal break, the main thing Boulmer is known for nowadays is RAF Boulmer, which carries out search and rescue operations and homeland defence. There was great consternation in 2003 when the base was earmarked for closure, threatening local jobs and livelihoods, but in 2008 there were sighs of relief all round as it was announced that the base would stay after all. In 1977 there was a UFO sighting at Boulmer consisting of two bright objects out to sea at a height of about 5,000 feet. The sighting was afforded credibility by the fact that it was RAF personnel who observed it and that it was confirmed by local radar facilities, but it was considered so sensitive that the information was only released more than 30 years later.

Map of the area.

Beach at Boulmer village - geograph.org.uk - 1898721. Photo by Oliver Dixon, via Wikimedia Commons.

ALNMOUTH

Regulars of The Schooner Hotel in Alnmouth must be quaking in their boots at the approach of Halloween. The hotel has twice been voted Britain’s most haunted hotel, with some 3,000 sightings recorded of over 60 individual spirits. These sightings have included a young boy on a tricycle, a uniformed man, and even a chicken! Naturally a hotel with so many ghosts has a distinguished history. It is a 17th century listed coaching inn which has been frequented by a number of notable people including Charles Dickens, Basil Rathbone, Douglas Bader and King George III. The hotel’s dark side, which no doubt led to many of the hauntings, was manifested in an array of murders, suicides and massacres.

But there is no sign of such horrors today. The Schooner lies in the village’s main street, which leads down to the mouth of the River Aln, whose sheltered estuary has facilities for yachts and small boats, although there is a shallow bar which makes entry difficult and there are dangerously fast currents. For landlubbers there are two golf courses and, of course, walks along the beach. The port here used to be an important trading centre mainly for the export of grain, and it was also a haven for smugglers. The town of Alnwick with its famous castle and gardens is just a short distance away, and last year it was reported that there are plans to reopen the railway line linking Alnwick with Alnmouth. The line was one of the casualties of Dr Beeching’s hatchet job when it closed in 1968, but the Aln Valley Railway Trust has received grants to reopen it.

Map of the area.

Colourful houses in Alnmouth village - geograph.org.uk - 1860663. Photo by Joan Sykes, via Wikimedia Commons.

WARKWORTH

A short distance from Amble on a loop of the River Coquet, its imposing castle high up on a grassy mound and clearly visible from the coast, Warkworth is a fortified village with a history going back centuries. The picturesque main street of the village, with several pubs, shops and galleries and restaurants, rises up towards the 15th century castle, run by English Heritage. The castle once belonged to the powerful Northumberland family the Percys, one of whose offspring, nicknamed Harry Hotspur for his impulsive nature, was the nemesis of two of England’s oldest enemies: the Scots and the French. He also led a rebellion against Henry IV in 1403, allying himself with the Welsh rebel Owain Glyndwr, but he was killed in the Battle of Shrewsbury.

Across the river from the castle is a hermitage consisting of a tiny 14th century chapel carved out of the rock. The story of how the Hermitage came about was told in a ballad called “The Hermit of Warkworth”, written by Bishop Percy in 1771 in three “fits”, the first of which sets a forbidding scene:

“Dark was the night and wild the storm,
And loud the torrent’s roar;
And loud the sea was heard to dash
Against the distant shore”.

The ballad goes on to tell of the tragic events in which the knight Sir Bertram unwittingly killed both his brother and the lady he was betrothed to in a tragic chain of events. It was this which led the knight to build the Hermitage and retreat from life there.

Warkworth also has an impressive church, St Lawrence, which is almost completely Norman. The earliest record of the church is from 737 AD when the church and village were given to the monks of Lindisfarne by King Ceolwulf of Northumbria.

A short distance away is Warkworth Beach, which is listed as one of the best surfing beaches in Northumberland.

Map of the area.

Warkworth Castle, River view. Photo by Mark J. Pearce, via Wikimedia Commons.

AMBLE

On the way from Newbiggin-By-The-Sea to Amble we come to the magnificent sandy sweep of Druridge Bay, home to a Country Park where, as well as the seven miles of beach there is a lake for boating and nature reserves with a variety of birds. Anti-tank blocks and pill boxes act as a reminder that during World War II this area was thought of as a possible location for a German invasion.

The town of Amble lies at the mouth of the River Coquet. There was once a Roman presence here, and after the Romans left the area was subjected to attacks by Germanic tribes and Vikings who had got wind of the fertile land in the area and the rich stocks of fish in the sea off this coast. Later on in the 19th century, Amble became an important centre for coal distribution until the decline of the mining industry. Today it is a popular centre for tourists visiting Northumberland, with attractions including a Marina and a Yacht Club. Just offshore is Coquet Island run by the RSPB, less well known than its more famous rivals up the coast, the Farne Islands, but with a similar range of inhabitants such as puffins and other nesting seabirds as well as eiders and seals. Unlike the Farnes, visitors are not allowed to set foot on the island, but boat trips are normally available which take visitors around the island. The island also has the base of a lighthouse tower which was built by monks.


Map of the area.

Amble Harbour Panorama - Northumberland (31135351171). Photo by alsimages1, via Wikimedia Commons.

NEWBIGGIN-BY-THE-SEA

The settlement of Newbiggin-By-The-Sea was originally called South Wallerick until the Danes came along and changed everything. They christened the town Newbegining and variations thereof, until the present-day name stuck. In the 14th century, the town had an important role in supporting Edward III’s campaign against the Scots. The town’s popularity as a beach resort began in Victorian times, when it was Northumberland’s premier resort. Newbiggin had its own colliery, but it closed in 1967. The church of St Bartholomew stands on a promontory at the north end of the main street. Newbiggin used to have a massive summer fair which included live music as well as stalls selling food and other produce. Sadly this event no longer takes place, but a local pub called The Old Ship is doing its best to revive it by holding an annual festival with a full programme of live music.  Other attractions include the Newbiggin Maritime Centre and a Golf Club.

Just inland from Newbiggin-By-The-Sea, Woodhorn is the site of a former colliery, now turned into a Country Park including a leisure lake. Woodhorn also has a Colliery Museum which covers over 800 years of Northumberland history. Woodhorn's Saxon church is believed to be the oldest on the Northumberland coasrt, and houses the Church Museum.

Map of the area.

Newbiggin-by-the-sea (Northumberland, England). Photo by Amyviolet, via Wikimedia Commons.

BLYTH

Blyth is the largest port in Northumberland. Its economy grew up around coal, salt, shipbuilding and fishing, much of which is now a thing of the past. Nowadays, new activity in the port has arisen courtesy of Scandinavia and the British Press, as large quantities of Scandinavian paper and pulp are handled by the port destined for the printing presses. Parts of the seafront are also given over to leisure, with South Beach being popular with watersports enthusiasts as well as walkers and sea anglers.  Back in the town, entertainment of various kinds is on offer at the Phoenix Theatre.

One of the oldest structures in Blyth is a lighthouse built in 1788 known as the High Light. The original height of 35 feet was extended by another 14 feet a century later, with another twelve and a half feet added in 1900. It no longer operates but is now a Grade II listed building. One interesting feature of the regenerated quayside in Blyth is a series of eleven “solar sound posts”, made of Douglas Fir and powered by solar power, which when approached play recordings of stories told by the local people about the area. All ages were involved in the project, from the very young talking about their senses and making sounds with props to the older generation sharing their memories of the war, of mining and other stories about the town.


Map of the area.

Blyth Pier (8502618749). Photo by michael marston, via Wikimedia Commons.

SEATON SLUICE AND SEATON DELAVAL

Passing up the coast to Seaton Sluice we come to Northumberland and one of my favourite stretches of the British coast. The Northumberland coast is wonderfully wild and varied, with impressive castles at intervals along its shore and the uplands of the county's interior as a backdrop.

The harbour at Seaton Sluice dates from 1660 when a port was built here for the export of coal and salt, consisting of a line of massive stones erected at the mouth of Seaton Burn. There used to be a sluice gate between the harbour and the burn, which is how this place got its name. The salt was made as far back as the 13th century in a place called Hartley Pans. In 1100 the nephew of William The Conqueror, Hubert De Laval, acquired land around here, and his family, the Delavals, settled a short distance inland at Seaton Delaval.

The stately pile of the present-day Seaton Delaval was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh and built by Admiral George Delaval in the 18th century, and is a masterpiece of English architecture. Sadly, both Sir John and Admiral George died before the building work was completed. The house grabs the attention of the passer-by, due to its postition on rising ground, and is imbued with romanticism, with its ionic columns and balustraded towers. The National Trust was given the task of looking after the future of this impressive architectural wonder and the doors were open to the public in May 2010.

Map of the area.

Seaton Sluice (8647544777). Photo by Timo Newton-Syms, via Wikimedia Commons.