MORAR

In my post about Pennan I talked about the filming of Local Hero, which was focussed on the east coast village. However, fans of the film who want to visit the wonderful beaches featured in the film will be disappointed if they expect to find them in Pennan; they will need to head west to Morar and Arisaig, in particular Camusdarach Beach, which lies between the two. One of the most amusing scenes in the film was when the local populace gathered in the little church overlooking the beach to hold a meeting about the oil company's bid to exploit the area, while the oil men stood on the beach, oblivious to the line of people filing into the church. This scene was filmed at Morar, however as is so often the case in the movies all is not as it seems. The building used to depict the exterior of the church was actually a house dressed up to look ecclesiastical! The interior scenes were filmed in another location entirely. However, the shack occupied by Ben known as Ben's Shack was filmed in Morar, in the area between the sand dunes and a rocky promontory. Just to the east of the village of Morar is Loch Morar, which is home to Scotland's lesser known monster, a relative of Nessie called Morag. Legend has it that whenever Morag is sighted it heralds the death of a member of the local branch of the MacDonald clan. This area has also been used in the movies: scenes from Rob Roy were filmed here.

Map of the area.

Looking North up Camusdarach Beach - geograph.org.uk - 68305. Photo by David Crocker, via Wikimedia Commons.

MALLAIG

Train buffs and Harry Potter fans alike will be delighted by a visit to Mallaig. The small port town is the terminus of what is generally considered to be one of the great railway journeys of the world, an 84-mile round trip between Mallaig and Fort William on the The Jacobite steam train. The Harry Potter connection arises from the fact that the route was that followed by the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films, with some of the Jacobite's carriages being used in the filming. The train runs from May to October, however outside this period some of the magic can be captured on normal train services, since Mallaig is also the terminus of the West Highland Line. The arrival of the railway in Mallaig led to a rapid growth in the local economy and the population. Aside from its rail links, Mallaig is something of a hub for a number of ferry services, to Armadale in Skye, the islands of Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna, and to Inverie in Knoydart. All this activity takes place against a backdrop of dramatic surrounding scenery and wonderful views over the Sound of Sleat to the Cuillin Hills on Skye. There is a Heritage Centre in the town with photographs and exhibits recalling the history of the locality.

Map of the area.

Mallaig Harbour - geograph.org.uk - 66439. Photo by Gordon Brown, via Wikimedia Commons.

KNOYDART PENINSULA

Knoydart is one of the wildest, least accessible parts of mainland Britain. The peninsula's 11 miles of road are not connected to the UK road network, meaning that the only way of getting to the peninsula is by sea or by means of a 16-mile walk over rough terrain. Even flying in is only an option by helicopter. The main sea route is from Mallaig to Knoydart's only village, Inverie. The ferry service which operates on this route is not only used by visitors to the peninsula, but provides a vital lifeline for the residents, bringing essential supplies to the village. Knoydart's past has been a turbulent one, marked by conflict between clans over control of the land and by forced evictions as part of the infamous Highland Clearances. In 1948 a group of men known as the "Seven Men of Knoydart" mounted a raid in an attempt to claim land for their own use, but the owner of the estate took the case to the Court of Session, and the claim was overturned. A subsequent appeal to the Secretary of State for Scotland was also rejected. There is a monument to the seven men in Inverie. Nowadays the preservation and development of Knoydart is looked after by the Knoydart Foundation, which bought the estate in 1999, ending years of conflict with private landlords. The estate is powered by a micro hydro-electric scheme operated by the Foundation. Inverie has a population of around 100 and its few amenities include Britain's remotest pub, The Old Forge Inn.

Map of the area.

Inverie Knoydart. Photo by Subarite, via Wikimedia Commons.

GLENELG AND SANDAIG

Many towns and villages in Britain have twins in other countries, for example my home town of Penzance is twinned with Concarneau in Brittany. Glenelg, however, has gone one better by being twinned with a location on Mars! The space rover Curiosity is currently sending back images of a rocky valley which scientists have called Glenelg - although the name has been chosen for a geographical feature in Canada, rather than the Scottish Glenelg. Glenelg is a village located on the bay of the same name with views across to Skye. The village has a range of accommodation from the acclaimed Glenelg Inn to a campsite, and there is a summer ferry service between here and Skye. Just outside Glenelg lie the ruins of Bernera Barracks, built by the English after the Jacobite uprising. The barracks are fenced off for safety reasons. Near the village are the brochs, or Iron Age settlements, of Dun Troddan and Dun Telve. The latter is the best preserved broch in mainland Scotland, with a 10m external wall. Three and a half miles from Glenelg is Sandaig, where the author Gavin Maxwell lived with his otters. The house where he lived was sadly burnt down in 1968, but there are memorial stones to Maxwell himself and to his pet otter Edal.

Map of the area.

Old Dock, Glenelg - geograph.org.uk - 600932. Photo by sylvia duckworth, via Wikimedia Commons.

EILEAN DONAN

I first set eyes on Eilean Donan on a driving holiday in Scotland, when we were on our way to make the crossing to Skye, and it was love at first sight. The name refers to the little island (eilean) of Donan, in Loch Duich, which is a continuation of Loch Alsh, but what makes it so special is the impossibly romantic castle perched on top of it. This must surely be one of the most photographed beauty spots in the whole of Scotland, so much so that anyone happening upon it for the first time is bound to experience a feeling of 'deja vu'. Sadly we didn't have time to visit the castle on that occasion, something I intend to rectify one day. For those who do make the time, it is open from March to October. The castle was originally built as protection against the Vikings, and over the years it evolved, reaching its maximum size in medieval times, but subsequently shrank, probably because less men were required to defend it. The castle's destruction came about during the Jacobite risings, but in the 20th century the island was bought by one Colonel John Macrae Gilstrap, who set about restoring the castle to its former glory, a task which was completed in 1932.

Not surprisingly, such a stunning location is bound to be popular with film-makers. Eilean Donan has made appearances in the James Bond film The World Is Not Enough, starring as the Castle Thane Headquarters of MI6, in Entrapment as the castle owned by Robert MacDougal (Sean Connery), in Highlander, Elizabeth: The Golden Age and Rob Roy, among others. In 2006 Eilan Donan castle was depicted in an unusual light, literally, when the artist Gerry Hofstetter illuminated the whole exterior of the castle with the Scottish flag, the Lion Rampant and the tartan of the clan MacRae.

Live streaming webcam view of the castle.

Map of the area.

BALMACARA

Hairy wood ants? That's a new one on me! Apparently these were recently found at the Balmacara Estate on the Lochalsh Peninsula, the furthest north and west these ants have ever been found in Scotland. The estate, an area of outstanding natural beauty covering 2,550 hectares, offers lochside woodland walks, interesting archaeological and historic features and the Balmacara Square Visitor Centre with guides to the footpaths and local information. The Lochalsh Woodland Garden contains an interesting mix of Scots Pine and other traditional woodland trees along with more exotic flora such as hydrangeas and rhododendrons, the latter best viewed in Spring. There are stunning views across to Skye from the garden.  As well as the Visitor Centre, the village of Balmacara Square has a number of picturesque, recently restored buildings and a range of accommodation options. Just beyond the western fringes of Balmacara is a monument to Donald Murchison, a Colonel in the Highland Army who defended Kintail and Lochalsh from 1715 to 1722 for his Jacobite chief, the exiled 5th Earl of Seaforth. Murchison risked life and limb by collecting rents on behalf of the Earl, and was imprisoned in the Tower of London. The monument, an obelisk, was erected many years later in 1863 by Murchison's great grand nephew Sir Roderick Murchison.

Map of the area.

Ard Hill across Balmacara Bay, Loch Alsh, Scotland - geograph.org.uk - 100933. Photo by Dave Napier, via Wikimedia Commons.

KYLERHEA

Apart from the bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh to Kyleakin and the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig, there is a third way of travelling between Skye and the mainland. The short five-minute crossing from Kylerhea to Glenelg, across the Kylerhea straits is made in the world's last sea going, hand operated turntable ferry, which operates from Easter to mid-October. The ferry takes just six cars at a time and has one ramp, with a revolving deck which allows cars to disembark. The crossing is enlivened by the fact that the straits are prone to fierce tidal flows which drag the ferry along like a piece of debris in a stream. This spot has been used as a crossing for hundreds of years, and once upon a time cattle were swum across the straits. Nearby is the Kylerhea Otter Hide, where as well as otters, the hide can be used to observe birds of prey, herons, sea birds and grey and common seals.

Map of the area.

Kylerhea Ferry - geograph.org.uk - 8429. Photo by Anne Burgess, via Wikimedia Commons.