PETERHEAD

Peterhead brought little joy to James Francis Edward Stuart, son of the deposed James II of England, and commonly referred to as "The Old Pretender" for his designs on the throne, when he arrived there from France on 22 December 1715, the year of "The Fifteen" Jacobite Rising which was aimed at putting James on the throne. He arrived stricken with seasickness and fever and in a state of misery over the fact that his treasure ship had been lost en route. To add to his woes, there was a rather feeble show of support waiting there for him. He didn't hang about: in February the following year he boarded a ship at Montrose for his return to France.

Peterhead has the distinction of being the most easterly point of Scotland, as well as the most populous town in Aberdeenshire; Aberdeen itself comes under a different municipal area. Fishing is the name of the game here, operating out of a complex, multi-section harbour, although further back in time sealing and whaling played a part in the local economy. The town is often referred to as "The Blue Toon", probably because of the colour of the socks and jumpers traditionally favoured by the fishermen. Peterhead's tourist attractions include the Lido, which is actually a sandy beach within the town's outer harbour. Peterhead Old Parish Church, or "Muckle Kirk", is 200 years old and has a graceful spire. Each summer, the town holds its Scottish Week, a chance to showcase the best produce and entertainment the locality can offer.

Map of the area.

Peterhead Bay - geograph.org.uk - 159768. Photo by Richard Slessor, via Wikimedia Commons.

BODDAM

Boddam, a granite fishing village which almost vies with Peterhead for the title of most easterly place in Scotland, lies above a harbour with big, solid concrete walls. The village is dominated by the red and white lighthouse on nearby Buchan Ness, completed in 1827 by Robert Stevenson, the grandfather of writer Robert Louis Stevenson. A bridge connects the lighthouse to the mainland. A public footpath from the harbour leads to the golden Sandford Bay, where lovers of sea bass can try their luck with these fish, as they are attracted to the area by the warm water brought about by the proximity of Peterhead Power Station. The Bay is also a great place for a walk, perhaps with a dog in tow, who will no doubt become all the more excitable due to the large rabbit population on this shore. Wildlife enthusiasts can view the large numbers of seals on the rocks outside the harbour, as well as a variety of seabirds. There used to be an RAF station nearby called RAF Buchan station, but this was closed down after 52 years. Now there is a bronze statue in Boddam of an airman which was unveiled in 2009 to commemorate the station. Sadly, the year after the unveiling, the local press reported that the statue had been vandalised by so-called "freedom fighters".

Map of the area.

Boddam. Photo by Mike Pennington, via Wikimedia Commons.

CRUDEN BAY

This beautiful bay, overlooked by the haunting ruins of the 16th century Slains Castle, was frequented by the novelist and creator of Dracula Bram Stoker, in fact it is thought that Slains Castle was the inspiration for Dracula, which was written in 1895. Two years later, the railway reached this area, opening the area up to tourism. A magnificent hotel was built, and golf courses were laid out, bordering on the fabulous sandy beach. A 1931 report of a serious fire at the railway station described it as having "commodious refreshment rooms, booking office, entrance hall and waiting rooms". The railway and hotel have gone now, but other hotels have been built, and the Cruden Bay Golf Club remains, billing itself as "a unique and unforgettable experience". As for the castle, it was announced in 2007 that the castle was to be converted into apartments, but this project is currently in the balance. Anyone wanting to visit the castle is warned to take care because of the dangerous surroundings, in fact as if to reinforce the dangers, it was reported earlier this month that a pensioner had gone missing in the area of the path from Cruden Bay to Slains Castle.

In 1914 Cruden Bay was the starting point for the first ever flight across the North Sea, when the Norwegian pilot Tryggve Gran flew from here to Stavanger. There is a memorial to him in the main street. St James Church dates from the 18th century, but there is a font which probably came from an earlier church built by Malcolm II in 1012, after a battle between the Scots and the Danes.

Map of the area.

View of Cruden Bay from the estuary. Photo by Mikey Shepherd, via Wikimedia Commons.

COLLIESTON

The village of Collieston, 20 miles north of Aberdeen, was once a thriving fishing village, with a good dose of smuggling thrown in for good measure. The 19th century pier stands as a reminder of past fishing activities. Sadly, the fishing declined partly as a result of the effect of the pier on the harbour, causing an accumulation of sand there. To the south of the village is the Forvie National Nature Reserve where the remains of a 12th century church lie half-buried among the sand dunes, whose inhabitants include the eider ducks so prevalent in this north-east corner of the country. Stories about smuggling and other tales of Collieston over the ages can be found on the excellent Collieston website.

Map of the area.

Lobster Boats at Collieston. - geograph.org.uk - 117085. Photo by Colin Smith, via Wikimedia Commons.

ABERDEEN

From Newtonhill, the approach to Aberdeen is marked by a series of small villages: Downies, Portlethen, which has become a residential area for commuters to Aberdeen, and Findon (aka Finnan), home of a variety of smoked fish called Finnan Haddie.

James Boswell and Samuel Johnson, who we last met slagging off a waiter at their inn in Montrose (see 8 December) had a much more positive experience on their arrival at Aberdeen, where the Lord Provost invited them to the Town Hall and bestowed on Johnson the freedom of the city. They also visited the English Chapel, where "the congregation was numerous and splendid".

The modern-day Aberdeen is dominated by the North Sea oil industry, as can be seen from the many oil-platform supply vessels crowding the harbour. The harbour's other functions include fishing, fish-processing and general trading, and it is also a departure point for ferries to Shetland and the Orkneys. Aberdeen's sandy shore has an 18-hole golf course called the Kings Links running alongside it. The city's museums include a Maritime Museum, housed in Provost Ross's House on the historic street known as Shiprow, an art gallery and Provost Skene's House, which resembles a castle more than a mere house. Aberdeen is often referred to as the Granite City, since granite features heavily in the city's impressive architecture, for example in the Marischal College, founded in 1593, which forms part of the University and has a museum which tells the story of the college's history. In fact, this learned city has two universities: the University of Aberdeen and Robert Gordon University, though the latter has only had university status since 1992.

The part of the city known as Old Aberdeen was once a separate Burgh and from the late Middle Ages was an important political, ecclesiastical and cultural centre. Many of the old buildings in this part of the city form part of a conservation area. King's College, which used to be a separate university, is located here. Its chapel dates from the 15th century, and has an impressive tower topped with an "imperial crown", a recreation of the original 17th century crown, which was lost during a storm. St Machar's Cathedral is also in Old Aberdeen; in spite of its name it is strictly speaking a "high kirk", since it is no longer the seat of a bishop.

For a list of events in Aberdeen, see here.

Webcam view of Aberdeen Beach.

Map of the area.

Old Marine Operations Centre, Aberdeen - geograph.org.uk - 1958623. Photo by Greig Ritchie, via Wikimedia Commons.

MUCHALLS

It's been a while since I last told a ghost story, so as we come to the darkest part of the year it seems like a good time for another one. The story behind the Green Lady of Muchalls Castle is a very sad one so get the tissues ready. The area was rife with smuggling in the old days, and the castle had a tunnel leading down to a cave on Muchalls Beach which was used to store spirits and wine brought in by smugglers. A young woman from the castle was having a bit of a romance with one of the smugglers, and one day she ran down to the tunnel to greet his return, forgetting that it was high tide and the tunnel was prone to flooding at high tide. The poor lady drowned before she had a chance to keep her tryst, and her ghost is said to haunt the castle's drawing room, where she parades up and down with a brush in her hand, getting herself ready for the rendezvous that would never be.

There is much more to Muchalls Castle's past than smuggling. One of the most notable events in its history was in 1638 when a gathering of Covenanters (Scottish Presbyterians) took place here in the run up to the English Civil War. During Victorian times, Muchalls was a popular health resort, with a golf course and a railway station, now gone although the line still runs through here. One of its most distinguished visitors was Charles Dickens, who sang its praises as a beautiful place to visit. Robert Burns was moved to describe the area as "a good deal romantic", and not without reason, as the coast around here is a spectacular mix of soaring cliffs formed from pre-Cambrian rock, sea stacks and rugged headlands such as Grim Brigs and Doonie Point.

A short distance up the coast from Muchalls is the larger settlement of Newtonhill, a clifftop fishing village with cottages and fishermen's huts. The Burn of Elsick flows into the North Sea here, and there is much good walking in the area, such as circular walk which takes in a plank bridge over the Burn. The Braehead is a good place for walkers to rest and enjoy the views of the bay or watch out for the wildlife of the area which, as well as a variety of sea birds, includes occasional sightings of seals, dolphins or even whales.

Map of the area.

Felsite rocks Muchalls - geograph.org.uk - 375747. Photo by Russell Lett, via Wikimedia Commons.

STONEHAVEN

With Hogmanay coming up soon, Stonehaven is gearing up for its annual Stonehaven Fireballs ceremony. This festival is a spectacular and colourful way of seeing in the New Year which attracts thousands of spectators including a fair few 'expats' home for the holidays visiting friends and relatives. The main event is a parade of people along the High Street in the Old Town swinging fireballs around their heads.

The harbour of the old town of Stonehaven is shared by yachts and fishing boats, while the town itself centres around its 19th century Market Buildings. In 1748 a group of ministers imprisoned in the town secretly baptised the children of fishermen's wives, who brought their charges to the ministers' cell windows. This and other fascinating stories are told in the Tolbooth Museum, set in Stonehaven's oldest building, built in the 16th century as a storehouse for George the 5th Earl Marischal while Dunnottar Castle was being rebuilt. To the north of the town is the old royal burgh of Cowie, another fishing area, and a row of cottages calld Boatie Row. From here a path leads over the cliff to the ruined 13th century St Mary of the Storms Church, from where there are lovely sea views.

For a list of events in Stonehaven, follow this link.

Map of the area.

Stonehaven Harbour - geograph.org.uk - 2240451. Photo by Russel Wills, via Wikimedia Commons.