Continuing the mining theme, just along the road from
Pendeen are the neighbouring villages of Botallack and Kenidjack. The mining landscape between the villages and
the coast path is some of the best in Cornwall, and includes the remains the
engine house Wheal Edward, part of the Wheal Owles Mine Sett. In 1893 Wheal Owles was the scene of a tragic
accident, when water came rushing in from a flooded neighbouring mine, a common
hazard in the Cornish mines, which often extended far out under the sea. 20 men were drowned in the accident, almost
half the men who were down the mine at the time. The Botallack Count House Workshop, owned by
the National Trust but free to enter, has information on mining in the area and on Poldark, as well as a
cafe, all housed in a building which performed an essential role as the place
where the miners went to collect their pay. The nearby Crowns Engine Houses in Botallack
occupy a dramatic position towards the lower end of the cliff, and featured in
the latest Poldark series. Kenidjack Headland is home to an Iron Age cliff castle, and there are
Bronze Age cairns in the area. The views of Cape Cornwall from here and, on a
clear day the Scilly Islands, are spectacular. If all this is not enough to tempt walkers
out onto the headland, birding enthusiasts will have the added pleasure of
keeping an eye out for peregrine falcons and Cornish choughs, identifiable by
their red bills.
Saturday, 26 November 2016
Thursday, 17 November 2016
PENDEEN
The village of Pendeen is strung out along the B3306, with
Carn Eanes, known locally as “The Carn”, towering over it. The moorlands above the village are dotted
with prehistoric sites and relics of the local mining industry. The village is separated from the coastal
path by fields with assorted farm animals.
Over in the distance the handsome whitewash lighthouse known as Pendeen
Watch, built in 1891, still lights up as soon as dusk descends, warning passing
ships off this treacherous stretch of coast.
The coastal path heading east from the lighthouse leads to the
delightfully secluded Portheras Cove.
Pendeen was otherwise known as Boskaswal Wartha, and the present-day
village is divided into Higher Boscaswell and Lower Boscaswell. Anyone wanting to get a sense of the
landscape around here should read ‘A Perfectly Good Man’ by Patrick Gale. My mother and stepfather live in the village, and reading this book the description of the main character’s house
and surroundings felt eerily familiar.
Between Pendeen and the neighbouring village of Trewellard
is the entrance to Geevor Tin Mine, which
offers tours of the old mine workings.
The mine was operational for a good part of the 20th century,
and owes its existence to a group of St Just miners who had emigrated to South
Africa but were forced to return due to the outbreak of the Second Boer
War. Being claustrophobic, I have not
been on the mine tour, in spite of its proximity to my relatives’ house. However, I can vouch for the novel experience
of walking through this evocative industrial landscape. It is a steep and uneven walk down to the
coastal path below, but well worth it for the chance to perch on the cliff top
and gaze down at the sea crashing against the rocks. Near Geevor Mine is the Levant Mine and Beam Engine, owned by the National Trust. Poldark fans may recognise it,
as it doubled up as Tressiders Rolling Mill in the TV series.
| Relics of the mining industry at Geevor |
 |
| Pendeen Lighthouse, by Barbara Ashley |
Map of the area.
Friday, 11 November 2016
GURNARD'S HEAD
This prominent headland on the stretch of coast between St
Ives and Lands End got its name from the fact that its shape is reminiscent of
the gurnard fish. There has always been
a lone pub on the headland as long as I can remember. Back in the day it was a normal, unassuming
St Austell Ales inn, but now, as a sign of the times, it has been turned into a
smart hotel and gastropub, no doubt a welcome stop along this wild coast for
those walking the South West Coast Path.
There is an iron age hill fort called Trereen Dinas (‘fort
at the farm on the point’) on the headland, the remnants of which can still
just about be made out in the form of a ditch and a bank with some drystone
walling. In the early 1800s there was a
copper mine named Wheal Treen in operation on Gurnard’s Head, but it fell into
disuse in 1877. Now there is just the
hotel and the nearby village of Treen.
The nearest beach to the headland is Treen Cove, a short distance to the
east of the headland. Probably not one
for families, as there are no facilities and no lifeguard cover, just the wild
beauty of the Atlantic breakers crashing on to the shore.
Map of the area.
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| Gurnard's Head, by Barbara Ashley |
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