The village of Pendeen is strung out along the B3306, with
Carn Eanes, known locally as “The Carn”, towering over it. The moorlands above the village are dotted
with prehistoric sites and relics of the local mining industry. The village is separated from the coastal
path by fields with assorted farm animals.
Over in the distance the handsome whitewash lighthouse known as Pendeen
Watch, built in 1891, still lights up as soon as dusk descends, warning passing
ships off this treacherous stretch of coast.
The coastal path heading east from the lighthouse leads to the
delightfully secluded Portheras Cove.
Pendeen was otherwise known as Boskaswal Wartha, and the present-day
village is divided into Higher Boscaswell and Lower Boscaswell. Anyone wanting to get a sense of the
landscape around here should read ‘A Perfectly Good Man’ by Patrick Gale. My mother and stepfather live in the village, and reading this book the description of the main character’s house
and surroundings felt eerily familiar.
Between Pendeen and the neighbouring village of Trewellard
is the entrance to Geevor Tin Mine, which
offers tours of the old mine workings.
The mine was operational for a good part of the 20th century,
and owes its existence to a group of St Just miners who had emigrated to South
Africa but were forced to return due to the outbreak of the Second Boer
War. Being claustrophobic, I have not
been on the mine tour, in spite of its proximity to my relatives’ house. However, I can vouch for the novel experience
of walking through this evocative industrial landscape. It is a steep and uneven walk down to the
coastal path below, but well worth it for the chance to perch on the cliff top
and gaze down at the sea crashing against the rocks. Near Geevor Mine is the Levant Mine and Beam Engine, owned by the National Trust. Poldark fans may recognise it,
as it doubled up as Tressiders Rolling Mill in the TV series.
| Relics of the mining industry at Geevor |
 |
| Pendeen Lighthouse, by Barbara Ashley |
Map of the area.
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